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I appreciate your response, but I am not sure we are talking about the same thing.

Can you elaborate on how a potentiometer would work as a switch?

So appreciated! I will go take a crack at that right now.
I disconnect ALL the power! always.

dc

Do you already have the switches?
If not, use potentiometers, cheaper, easier to wire, and linear regulation/range/etc

sawdust wrote:

I tried reversing the motor phase connections on one driver/motor and the motors still both spun the same direction.

One winding ONLY, not both, and not phases.
Single phase, one winding, two wires, that is the only thing you need to change for it to change direction.
Edit:
NEVER while the drive is powered!!!

Is it a subtle difference? I don't see a difference in zooming with your changes.
It certainly didn't hurt anything ti have it in.

LIkely the answer is no, hope I am wrong.

I am using linuxcnc 2.7.15 breakout board with printer cable
My X axis has twin rack/pinion drive, motors need to turn in opposite directions. Modifying HAL is beyond me.

I tried reversing the motor phase connections on one driver/motor and the motors still both spun the same direction. Should clarify, both CW and CCW but in sync not opposite as I need.
I have both x axis motors connected to P2 P3 not ideal I realize.

I wonder if it is possible to rearrange the control connectors to reverse one motor? I have not messed with this. The jumpers bringing power to pul+ Dir+ and Ena+  puzzle me. Ena- goes to P2 and Dir- goes to P3.

Thank you.
David

EDIT: I ordered and received binary switches, after some contemplation. They only output in binary - no pins for switch positions - and seem to be the right tool for the job in LinuxCNC with a Mesa 7i73 card. Time will tell.

Weirdly, Mouser doesn't even include this in their "Coded Rotary Switches" section, so finding them was down to luck. The pins are super delicate, so it's pretty clear it was meant to be mounted directly on a PCB. I'm not currently sure how that would work in a DIY console, so I still might get some little breakout PCBs made.

Lorlin BCK1006 pictured below, though BCK1008 would also make a lot of sense, maybe even more sense. It would have more closed circuits than open circuits in the most oft-used positions.

EDIT: I added a graphic to illustrate the alternative that I found during this discussion. A mux switch seems to be the right tool for the job, but existing products, and documentation combined with illustration of their function are basically nonexistent. This is my attempt to create a resource for future me and others to refer to when creating their own mux selector switches.

I am moving from EdingCNC to LinuxCNC.

Sorting out the MPG/pendant, I thought I could just use 1k resistors like in the attached image of the EdingCNC manual, with the 7i73 analog input sensing the resistance value, but I can't seem to find any examples of anyone doing this in LinuxCNC. Here is a screenshot from the EdingCNC manual, that shows what I was planning to do:

@roya
I gave that same 6.12-rc7 image some more test , trying to pinpoint where the glitches come from , for the sake of learning , an i do got this dust collector opi4 ...
Stumble upon the linuxcnc-rio guy , wow , still got 80 pages of post to read + his git .
Back to your 6.12rc7 , tried the 3 deb packages you've post on another image , the headers deb is corrupted by te way .
With same -1Gb img , stopping some unused .services , I do get ''stable'' shutdown now , isolating 3 last cores ,
no impressive latency results of course , but a usable fast enough(no lag) jwm desktop ,no hang ,no oo's , i'll hook up the 7i92 to the bob with it , the opi4/your 6.12rt as a ''one at the time'' purpose job and come back , after reading more about the rio .
Kernel 6.12 is young , worth testing it , opi4 may not be the best sbc candidate , not to mention xulong support , or worse their forum !!!
Thanks again , no rush ,i'll be back .
PJ
edit ; still some random kernel panic on shutdown ,i will try recompiling the dts for opi4 to see if it goes somewhere..

Hi Mark,

As always I forgot to mention some things:
At 2:20 on the video you unscrew the hydraulic ram. That is the thread in my instruction sheets that you need to heat because it is Loctited. I'm not sure I like your parallel grip pliers for that job. I used a large adjustable spanner for that, which not much better, and I couldn't move mine cold, for fear of damaging the part. That is when i came to use the paint stripper gun on low. I just held a steady torque and it suddenly came free after a minute or so of heating. Most Acrylic lockers will soften at around 120 - 130 C. Have you found broken Belleville springs?
At 2:35 you show a diagram p7.35-2/3915. First lets mention that there is a thread on the ram that the whole gripper assembly threads onto. So the bolt you remove is part of the system that stops that whole assembly from turning on that thread. In the diagram it seems to show a socket head screw, the head of which I think is used to splay a split collet to jamb the assembly from turning. But when I step through you video you remove a grub screw. So I'm thinking that you actually have the same locking system as my machine 7.35-1 that I put up  with the ball and grub locking?
As you leaf through the drawings at 1:20 you see my type of NT40 tool where I have to machine a groove on the tool holder. The dimensions are exactly the same as mine. I've actually made the setting jig suggested. I don't actually like it much as there is an M16 thread underneath that groove and it leaves alarmingly little meat under the groove, along with the thread stress concentration.
I've had a few second thoughts on my end float comments. I know they make matched pairs of angular contact bearing for common uses like car wheel bearings where they are matched preloaded. It looks like it could be possible that your clamping ring closes the preload on just the inner rings like that. Whatever, it's clear that those bolts should not be loose. They should have some set torque applied. Might be wise to see if Maho can help with end float/ pre-load. At least do the temperature runs after repacking. I would expect it to run hot after re-packing, but come good during the process. Running cold may actually be a bad sign.

Cheers,
David

Been using it ever since I got my 3D printer for models.
Used the path bench a few time with success for basic 2d stuff.
Mango Jelly Solutions has some good tutorials as well.

Regarding rpi5 I swap to riocore so there is some changes.
For old rio follow instructions on rio page 11

Here is changes for riocore:

I have a raspberry pi5 and this is the code of how I started the SPI communication of the RPI5 - TangNano9K. (Not yet machine tested)

OS: 

• LinuxCNC 2.9.2   Raspberry Pi 5 OS based on Debian Bookworm   Raspberry Pi 5 Uspace compatible with Mesa Ethernet and SPI interface boards.

In /boot/broadcom/config.txt check is SPI is enabled (reboot if not)

# uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
#dtparam=i2c_arm=on
#dtparam=i2s=on
dtparam=spi=on

In /dev/
Check do you have listed spidev0.0, should be!

Generate output files as for raspberry pi4. When you have generated them, find the file 'riocomp.c' and open it. In general, you need to find and replace the code responsible for rpi4 SPI communication. You need to swap approximately 4200 lines of code with around 60 lines, swap FROM:

INSERT CODE:
 
TO:


Find and add:
 

And that's all. This procedure with 'riocomp.c' must be repeated every time the output files are regenerated.
 

1.  
   
2. It's working!!! The vid="0x00445653" and pid="0009252" must exactly match the driver's configuration, and the registers should start from RxPDOs - 0x1600 ; TxPDOs 0x1A00 - verified in TwinCAT 2 and ethercat sdos
   

Vevor no, but maybe, usually not isolated.
The 1000VA looks good, has outputs that can be paralleled giving 8.7A and can handle quite some beating, so get 1 of those, it will be more than enough for testing and running individual motors. After you do that, you can try using 2 or more motors with it and see how it behaves, you might just get away with 2 or 3 of those if no fast acceleration is needed.
Kuka does not makes drives, Siemens does/did, although that looks like something Beckhoff would make, so try finding more info on them. Also notice Kuka used fieldbus and profibus for comms...

is it possible to drive kuka drivers or not, they are completely blocked by kuka?

 

a pity about auto transformers, because there are plenty of them for sale, and they're high-powered.

I'll turn to this:



is it insulated?



moreover, i found in my garage two insulated 400/240 - 110V transformers with a power of 1000VA with two 110V 2x4.26A outputs and can up to 5000VA for short time

 

so I'll go with

transformer 1000 VA : - motor 0.57 kw 1.6A 143V
                                - motor 0.57 KW 1.6A 143V

 transformer 1000 VA: -motor 0.57 KW 1.6A 143V
                                -motor 1.5 KW 3.7A 146V

transformer 3000 VA :- motor 2.5KW 5.4A 185V
                                -motor 2.5KW 5.4A 185V

does this sound right or is the 3KVA transformer too small?