Planning - Bridgeport Interact 1 linuxCNC Retrofit

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAndy,

No I dont think it will be easy to replace. Im hoping it will be Im not sure how Im going to tackle this particular problem until I tear into it I guess.

Any suggested reading you can advise with motors similar to mine that show the "guts" so I can get an idea how the tach and encoder fit together. I would assume the encoder is in the end plate and the tach is closer to the interior to allow me room to install another encoder.??

I have attached a picture under the wiring plate. (well the guy took the pic for me:) )

How do I go about getting my hands on this developmental board in the USA? I'm assuming I would have to contact the company directly and try to get my hand on that board? iC-MG EVAL MG1D

EDIT: after being on IRC I now belive using the IDP101 solution for converting signals will be the best solution. I need to study up on this board.

Also using DIN mounted 12v Relays

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

cncnoob1979 wrote: I would assume the encoder is in the end plate and the tach is closer to the interior to allow me room to install another encoder.??

Yes, I think that the thin red and black will be the tachometer output wires.
You know there is a fair chance that the other end of that encoder cable has a plug for the EXE units?

Also using DIN mounted 12v Relays

Mechanical relays? How quaint!

I do like the idea of solid state relays. I can push up to 300ma 10+- volts to activate the relay. I wonder if the solid state relays require more than that. I'll have to look into it.

cncnoob1979 wrote: I can push up to 300ma 10+- volts to activate the relay. I wonder if the solid state relays require more than that. I'll have to look into it.

No, they need much, much less. I think you can operate them with TTL voltages, in fact.

Alright!

I am pulling the "trigger" tomorrow :silly: I bring my Bridgeport Series 1 Interact 1 home with me!
Wish me good luck and I hope I don't drop the damn thing on the journey :woohoo:

Andy,

I hope to use solid-state relays, would be nice - but finding non-china relays may prove difficult and/or very expensive from my limited searching. Any relay's that you would suggest (model#'s?)

cncnoob1979 wrote: I hope to use solid-state relays, would be nice - but finding non-china relays may prove difficult and/or very expensive from my limited searching. Any relay's that you would suggest (model#'s?)

I have used a few Chinese ones, without problems. However I haven't used that many, partly because the GPIO interface board on my mill is a 7i64 and that has 48V / 2.5A drivers on it so things like the pneumatic valves are driven directly.

Mouser / Digikey etc sell quite a range, some are the same format as DIN-rail terminal blocks, which might be convenient.

Alright i purchased this interact 1 mill. I have it at the house. It's still on the trailer but I have to find a way to unload it. I'll post pictures tomorrow!

So I will have to remove the spindle motor to fit under a 7 ft garage door. I have plenty of space in my garage ceiling. 15ft?

Anyone with advise that has had to remove components to fit under a garage door?

cncnoob1979 wrote: Anyone with advise that has had to remove components to fit under a garage door?

Not with an Interact, no.

But others have
www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/bridgeport...-remove-head-271125/

The idea of making a fixture for the spindle that allows use of the table to lift the turret off, then swing it round and lower the table is fairly clever.

If I wanted to remove the head from this machine. Just the upper portion. Do I need to just remove these four bolts? How is the quill interface? Just a dog gear right?

So disconnect the motor power supply and exterior attachments - hoses ect. Then remove the four bolts in the picture and will the motor and gearbox assembly come out as one pice?

Leaving the main bolts (large ones horizontal) in place. I'm trying to split it for clearance purposes.

Decided not to split the head. I will be removing the entire head unit as one piece, including the motor! All components, oil, air and wiring has been removed/disassembled . After I get this into the garage I'll reinstall the head and start to rewire all I had to remove. :dry: