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Fryer MB-11 Bed Mill Retrofit
This console was built to be used for a router that never happened. So some things arnt used.
After integrating it with LinuxCNC, some things were difficult to interface to using the type input. ie pots. the jog joystick is cool, but not really as practical as I thought. I was thinking like you mentioned, of using the selector to pick the axis and use the jog button from there.
The MPG is used the most. My step increments arnt really great, but im not sure what I want to change them to as increments of 10 make the most sense. on .01, the machine can really resonate.
Spindle control sucks.... This will be changed to 6 buttons and remove the knob and selector switch. Fwd, Stop, Rev then 100% -10% and +10%. This is be much more practical.
Vacuum will be removed as this was for the vacuum pump of the router.
I dont know what I want to do with the coolant section yet.... Open to suggestions.
For program run, I need to change the feedrate override knob to a max velocity knob or something. I really like how it is handled on the Fanuc controls with a detented knob.
The limit override is useless unless you estop on a limit. I can deal with clicking that in SW.
I really like the zero axis buttons. I use a Haimer and will for the foreseeable future. My intention was to change the limit button to a divide by 2 option so when I hit the zero with it activated, it divides that axis by 2.
A few other code things would be to set up the reset button to clear estop on first press then enable the machine on second press. I corrected the wiring of the machine to keep the encoders live during estop so my estop doesn't lose position, now I just need to be able to enable the machine without hitting F2.
I will also be adding some toolchanger buttons I think as that is my next project.
-Adam
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- DeckelHead
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You do realize that if you took away the joystick then you could not feel like you were playing pong! Then again, your picture shows you as being younger so you probably missed the whole Pong thing anyhow, LOL.
I hadn't thought about +/- 10% on the spindle. I was actually planning on doing an analog pot and tying that into the 7I84 analog input. I'll have to reconsider this. My old Hurco control had a pot for spindle and jog speed tuning, so I thought I'd stick with that.
I was actually planning on keeping a vacuum feature on my console because I plan on using that periodically. Funny how things vary from user to user, but that is the beauty of it all, I suppose.
Coolant is an absolute plus for me. Although, in my system I only have 'coolant' and then a physical switch to go between mist and flood. That is just how my machine was originally wired and I'm keeping that. I didn't see a huge motivator for changing that.
Program run... You have me intrigued. I don't know how Fanuc does this so now that is something I need to check into.
Override... I agree. Kind of a waste of real estate and contributes to clutter. I have a soft limit too, so I shouldn't ever get to the actual limit switch. I wasn't planning on that.
Zero button. Duh! I was thinking it was HOME and not ZERO. Yes, very useful.
I think that clears up some of the buttons... I am trying to reuse my original panel for the time being so that I can see if I'm missing something. After that, I'll move to a more permanent solution. But I think I'm off to a decent start.... I wish I had a toolchanger but I don't. In my garage I really don't need it though so I can't really complain.
I like your Fryer... It looks like a great machine. My 'ole Hurco isn't as nice but it isn't a bad machine.
Thanks!
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DeckelHead wrote: Coolant is an absolute plus for me. Although, in my system I only have 'coolant' and then a physical switch to go between mist and flood. That is just how my machine was originally wired and I'm keeping that. I didn't see a huge motivator for changing that.
My lathe has a three-position switch for coolant: On-Auto-Off. (In auto mode it is controlled by the M-code)
You could consider Flood-Mist-Auto-Off in your case.
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- DeckelHead
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I have been thinking about the separate ZERO switches on the console. I think I'll go to one, and here is why... I'll be finding my part zero using the X,Y,Z,A selector switch in the correct position so that I can jog with the wheel. Therefore, I've already primed the pump for using a single ZERO switch (again, because the selector switch will already be on the desired axis). That seems cleaner to me than multiple switches for each axis, but I'm curious if you, Adam, have a opinion on why my thoughts here are incorrect.
Alan
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DeckelHead wrote: Yep, in my case, I was planning on exactly that. I lose the ability to automatically control flood vs mist, but that is OK.
Inside HAL there is a distinction, I rather suspect that allowing automatic flood / mist from G-code can be handled in HAL logic.
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- DeckelHead
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Yeah, I understand that. The 'problem' (although not really, IMHO) is that I only have a single relay for flood AND mist. After that, there is a switch that diverts the 120VAC to either a solenoid (for mist) or pump (for flood). So, the limitation is physical, not ephemeral. If I decide that I want true control of both functions via LinuxCNC, I'll have to rewire the system. In truth, that isn't a horrible thing. As I'm finishing up on my control, I have a few spare relays and I could easily retask one of these with 120VAC outputs and then I'd solve everything.
However, right now I don't see a big reason to do this. My machine is in a (pathetically cramped) garage. Without an enclosure, I cannot really run with flood. It would make too much of a mess.
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- DeckelHead
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I've been grappling with how to reuse the aluminum of my existing panel with a new control. I'm going down this route for a few reasons. First, I hate to admit it, but I'm cheap. My wife says I am, my kids say I am, my brothers say I am.... So, I have to embrace it. I really don't like spending money.
But this produces a problem. The holes are not in the right spot. More importantly, I am really not too sure what I'll want in the end. I expect to have some features/buttons as hits and others being duds. Ideally, I'd learn from my mistakes and redo the panel. But the raw aluminum is looking like it might approach $100 at my supplier. That is a hefty bill for doing something several times.
So, I have been looking for alternatives and I think I've found one. Dibond is a product that is a composite. It has thin aluminum with a rigid plastic core. It is used in the sign industry quite a bit where it is painted, etched, printed, etc. It is pretty weather proof too, which is attractive for our uses. Finally, it looks like it can be engraved too, if you're into that.
I'm considering making a front panel with this stuff. If it isn't rigid enough, I can always use the original panel as a backing At that point, I won't really care how many holes are in it as they'd be covered with the Dibond front.
Are you familiar with this product?
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My neighbour stole some from his workplace to sheet a trailer with, and I stole the offcuts that he left lying around in the communal parking area (he's a scruff). So mine was both very cheap and doubly morally reprehensible.
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