7x10 Mini Lathe to CNC 5 Axis

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13 Apr 2019 01:30 #130751 by cmelojr
So I've gotten far enough in the design stage that I'd like to start sharing my build. I've got the lathe itself and the basic CNC components. I've managed to install LinuxCNC and get the motors moving. Tomorrow I start hopefully bolting some components on.

I'll start with a rendering


Far from finished with the design but far enough along to start on the Z axis. Plan right now is to keep it as cheap as possible. I'll start by 3D printing all the custom components and make them in aluminum,steel or cast iron when I'm happy with them.

Some bullet points:
-For the motors I'm starting with a chinese ebay special 3 axis nema 23 kit and BOB.
-16mm z & y axis screws and a 12mm x. Looks like I could fit a 16mm in the x axis as well so may change my mind.
-Re-designing the top slide to a T-slot bed and adding tapered gibs to the x and z axis.
-Using MGN rails on the Y axis for simplicity
-Have a worm gear reduction modeled in the back of the Y axis currently to do A axis rotation. They can be found for cheap from China.
-Not sure what I'll use for a spindle. Currently have a cheap chinese spindle in the model. Was trying to find maybe a cheap lathe live tool block. Or make my own?
-Plan on mounting a servo motor for the spindle and having a couple pulley options for it but think I've bitten off a good amount to work on for now.

That's a start, hope to update more soon as I make progress!

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13 Apr 2019 03:03 #130756 by InMyDarkestHour
I like the X axis design.

Before going too far make sure that saddle is a really good fit.
www.toolsandmods.com/library/marty-nissen-project-lathe

It takes a while to do it, but the difference it makes is amazing.

Ditch the original saddle gibs and make some tapered ones.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cmelojr

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13 Apr 2019 03:09 #130757 by cmelojr
Thanks, I've actually been reading up a lot on machine rebuilding and have a scraping class with Richard King next month. So in addition to all the mods I'll be going through the lathe pretty thoroughly and hoping I can get it in as best as it can be.

I'll definitely be doing the usual tapered gibs and new spindle bearings.

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13 Apr 2019 07:38 - 13 Apr 2019 07:40 #130761 by pl7i92
great Projekt to be
keep updating us here as it develops
and dont loose your Euporia
as Problems will come soon

Question why is the Z Axis stepper and ballscrew in front as there is the most dirt on mashines
better to shiled it from behind
and do a DRO scale infront Liniar scale sets for Lathe are amazing cheep
Last edit: 13 Apr 2019 07:40 by pl7i92.

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13 Apr 2019 15:33 #130775 by cmelojr

pl7i92 wrote: great Projekt to be
keep updating us here as it develops
and dont loose your Euporia
as Problems will come soon

Question why is the Z Axis stepper and ballscrew in front as there is the most dirt on mashines
better to shiled it from behind
and do a DRO scale infront Liniar scale sets for Lathe are amazing cheep


If it weren't a retrofit then I wouldn't put them in front but it's easier to put it in front because that's where the leadscrew was and the apron makes a convenient place to bolt the ball nut.

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14 Apr 2019 08:41 #130836 by pl7i92
retrofit
Sorry did not get that
as a full Construction where presented
not that cowmen

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17 Apr 2019 21:34 #131080 by andypugh
photos.app.goo.gl/nwM9Ze59j3zi5TB77

Is an an album showing how I made tapered gibbs for my lathe.
The technique there doesn't need any special angle measurement, I just put the base block in the vice vaguely wonky, machined the slot, then clamped the Gib in and faced both parts off flat with the base block in the vice somewhat straighter.

Have fun with your project, you will learn a lot. Main that lathes make poor mills :-) A lesson i learned myself doing that project.

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18 Apr 2019 10:16 #131143 by InMyDarkestHour
Don't ask me how I found out how much those beds flex.

Tho to be honest I was able to machine all the bits and bobs to do a a wheel swap on my Monster. 1040 pushed the limits (I was give a 50mm bar at the local metal supplier so that was the suff used for top hat spacers)...... The sprocket carrier just fit..just

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18 Apr 2019 13:32 #131153 by cmelojr

andypugh wrote: photos.app.goo.gl/nwM9Ze59j3zi5TB77

Is an an album showing how I made tapered gibbs for my lathe.
The technique there doesn't need any special angle measurement, I just put the base block in the vice vaguely wonky, machined the slot, then clamped the Gib in and faced both parts off flat with the base block in the vice somewhat straighter.

Have fun with your project, you will learn a lot. Main that lathes make poor mills :-) A lesson i learned myself doing that project.


I've seen people make a gib like that. I'd have to look at mine since it looks like on yours its ground on the bottom of the rail where the gib rides and then adjacent to it as well. So you could make the gib thick enough to ride both those surfaces.

I designed mine like this


It sits in a dovetail which has a 1 degree taper along it's length. Not sure if that's necessary.

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18 Apr 2019 13:35 #131155 by cmelojr

AnnoyingMutt wrote: Don't ask me how I found out how much those beds flex.

Tho to be honest I was able to machine all the bits and bobs to do a a wheel swap on my Monster. 1040 pushed the limits (I was give a 50mm bar at the local metal supplier so that was the suff used for top hat spacers)...... The sprocket carrier just fit..just


I've wanted a Monster for a while and didn't exactly know what I wanted to do with this lathe. Originally I started this project for learning LinuxCNC but now it's growing, but maybe I'll end up making motorcycle parts in my apartment:laugh:

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