Looking for a replacement or way to fix my smoked turret encoder on the CHNC II

There is a  shaft that sticks up just past this to mount the magnet on. There's a bit over 1/2" room under the cover.

Magnet mounts on the shaft through this, and above it.

I think @Aciera nailed it.  Looks like the cap died and blew off the potting.

Maybe you can just replace the cap and be back in business.

This tiny print on the phone is too hard to follow, I'll get back to you on the pc later, but there are 6 leads out of this unit.

The small chips have 4 pins (if i have not gone blind), so dual output hal sensors or 2 or reed per chip?
A DVM and 2 minutes of time would answer that.

Are you saying there is another magnet and sensor under the turret, or is the magnet that mounts above this position switch going to be all that handles that duty? And I believe you're right on the lack of encoding ability of it, my brain keeps going back to that word because it's simple and I'm not sure what to call it.
Also, I'm listening to suggestions on how to get the soft epoxy or whatever it is off so I can get intimate with the parts inside. You can see I tried cutting it, not an easy task.
"Should be do-able to buy a PCB perf board & some hall switches (or reeds) and mount them at the same radius as the original part.  Wire/solder them to a header and connect a cable back to your control - can test the arrangement on the bench using a magnet and a power supply."
What about the rest of the components on that board? It sounds like you're saying a new setup doesn't need them?

spumco wrote:

Loren wrote:

Repair tech said they are reed switches? 
[assuming someone who'd been inside one of these things doesn't come along...here's my thoughts]

Either way, there's a magnet in the turret plate (sub-plate that engages the Hirth coupling) that triggers one of the switches when the plate is rotated to the correct position.  And likely one wire/conductor per switch, plus a power or ground wire.   My guess is that there's no 'encoding' function - just a simple one-to-one position per switch scheme.

Check your cable and see if there are 9 or 10 conductors.  If they're reeds you may even be able to do some continuity checks with a magnet (don't need power for reeds) and see which one(s) are dead.

If you don't want to try to dig out the dead switch(s), it looks like a circuit board potted in epoxy or similar.  Should be do-able to buy a PCB perf board & some hall switches (or reeds) and mount them at the same radius as the original part.  Wire/solder them to a header and connect a cable back to your control - can test the arrangement on the bench using a magnet and a power supply.

If it works, a 3d printed box or mount can be modeled/printed based on the potted board, and the whole thing coated with epoxy for oil/coolant resistance (3D printed parts aren't watertight).