Electrical cabinet cooling

 I had thought about using 2 Liquid to air radiators / coolers one inside the cabinet and one outside , Just hope
they never leak. That would also come with a drawback of  needing a circulating pump plus fans to move air over the
radiator cores. That said it is also possible to use a trans. cooler in the cabinet and a 55 gallon drum full of water outside the
garage as the cooling medium and do evaporative type liquid cooling . I would have to worry about mosquitoes though.
I do live in Florida after all.

I have an alergic reaction to conductive liquids inside electrical enclosures.  I know, I know... liquid cooled PC and all that, but still...

A couple of big surplus heatsinks bolted back-to back through the enclosure top or wall seems less fussy.

spumco post=224724 userid=28776I have an alergic reaction to conductive liquids inside electrical enclosures.  I know, I know... liquid cooled PC and all that, but still...

A couple of big surplus heatsinks bolted back-to back through the enclosure top or wall seems less fussy.

I just wish the aluminum heat sinks were cheaper . Why is it that a radiator being more complex, more labor intensive
to build, cheaper then an extruded aluminum heat sink. Rhetorical question obviously. And I hear you on the conductive fluids thing .
That's why I want to go with an air to air inter-cooler instead. I had dismissed the air to liquid thing a little bit back . I put it down
on a previous post as one of the possibilities  I had no intension of doing it.

HeatsinksUSA.

A 8"x18"x0.5" fine-pitch extruded heat sink is about $30.

$60 for a passive radiator and no fussing around?  Come on now...

spumco wrote:

HeatsinksUSA.

A 8"x18"x0.5" fine-pitch extruded heat sink is about $30.

$60 for a passive radiator and no fussing around?  Come on now...
 

Not sure why I haven't seen them before But I will be checking them out . Because YES that is reasonable pricing.

Glad to put you on to them.  Just pay attention to the spacing and fin height.  I wound up having to fiddle around a bit to get some screws down in there... i.e. plunging with a 3/8 end mill just to get some clearance.

They should work fine, keeping the enclosure internal temps up a bit to help with humidity and condensation, but as the temp differential climbs they'll start doing their job.  Worst case, you add a cheapo 120mm case fan on the outside just to stir things up a bit.

Note - if you're going back-to-back, sand them flat on a surface plate or run a flycutter across the back.  The ones I got from them were very nice, but not flat enough for good heat transfer.

spumco wrote:

Glad to put you on to them.  Just pay attention to the spacing and fin height.  I wound up having to fiddle around a bit to get some screws down in there... i.e. plunging with a 3/8 end mill just to get some clearance.

They should work fine, keeping the enclosure internal temps up a bit to help with humidity and condensation, but as the temp differential climbs they'll start doing their job.  Worst case, you add a cheapo 120mm case fan on the outside just to stir things up a bit.

Note - if you're going back-to-back, sand them flat on a surface plate or run a flycutter across the back.  The ones I got from them were very nice, but not flat enough for good heat transfer.
 

I intended to use a fan of some sort 1 inside and 1 outside of the case. Thanks for the heads up on the base surface.
Fortunately I have access to a large surface plate at work. I also intend to use Thermal transfer grease to make sure
I have a good heat path.

One other question has anyone made a diy heatpipe?