Some 3D printing advice to start this section

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04 Sep 2021 20:40 #219626 by tommylight

Hi, any chance of sharing your config?

As requested, config attached as is, works with built in parallel port:
Attachments:

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04 Sep 2021 22:59 #219632 by scotta

Hi, any chance of sharing your config?

As requested, config attached as is, works with built in parallel port:

Hi Tom, thanks for sharing. I didn't realise that my config had made it into LinuxCNC. :-) I was interested in you MAX_ACCELERATION and STEPGEN_MAXACCEL values. I've always struggled with following error.

BR
Scott

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04 Sep 2021 23:07 #219633 by tommylight

Hi Tom, thanks for sharing. I didn't realise that my config had made it into LinuxCNC. :-) I was interested in you MAX_ACCELERATION and STEPGEN_MAXACCEL values. I've always struggled with following error.


STEPGEN_MAXACCEL = MAX_ACCELERATION + 25%
That always works.
I do get following errors but only when nearing the base period timing limit.

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17 Jul 2022 12:32 #247560 by tommylight
Here is another of my monstrosities, a Voron Legacy mounted on the Creality CR-10 MAX control box.
Original Creality board with silent drives, BL-Touch, AfterBurner with a Volcano hot end, double Z, etc.
Also attaching the config for it, someone on youtube requested it, remove the .txt after download.





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13 Dec 2022 16:32 #259329 by machinedude
i just bought my first one for a Christmas present for myself yesterday :) nothing fancy just something cheap to play with. just noticed that the operating system is Linux so not sure what that means at this point :) 

my thoughts came back to things related to plasma in the sense of light and fast being a plus so i avoided the bed slinger set up and kept it simple and avoided the delta type configuration too :)

my thoughts were telling me the style with the bed feeding up and down might have a better chance of doing faster prints since the X and Y axis are light and doing most of the work? of course i am just taking a guess and could be completely wrong :)

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14 Dec 2022 07:14 #259423 by machinedude
did some looking and it looks like the printer i ordered is a clone of the Ender-5 S1. ender has this printer on sale for $503 at the moment and i Picked up the Sovol SV05 for $286, Sovol is weird in the sense they use Creality parts on their machines but have their name on the machine?

any ways there are some sort cuts on the Sovol machine but still looks like a good starter machine. print speeds are nowhere near the Ender 5 S1 and the hot end is rated lower plus the interface is not fancy but it is almost half the cost.

what would be a respectable  print speed on average for PLA ? 

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14 Dec 2022 17:13 #259478 by tommylight
Sovol makes decent ptinters and a good base to improve on, later, after you get a feel for what it can do.
Start with 30 to 50mm/s for PLA.
Slicers do a good job of having usable configurations for almost all 3D printers. Almost, as for Vorons it has to slow everything!
And, do not get distracted by printing speeds, the imaginary 250 to 1000mm/s are far from reality.
They can be achieved, of course, but that implies using specialised hotends, starting from Volcano or CHT and up to Goliath by VEZ 3D, corexy with very lite gantry and extruders, runny/flowy materials, etc, etc.
Anyway you look at it, 150 to 200mm is reachable, anything above is to much fuss and money for low returns and plenty of failed prints.
And, just in case you get convinced by the youtube videos to run Klipper, you do NOT need a RPI of any kind, any old PC will work with it and be much cheaper, and more useable.

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14 Dec 2022 20:43 #259499 by machinedude
on the Sovol website they suggest 80mm/s for this printer but i would imagine it's different for the different materials you choose to print in too.
i was planning on using fusion 360 for my solid files and Cura for my slicer program at this point Cura seems to be pretty popular. looks pretty straight forward from what i have seen so far.

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17 Dec 2022 16:21 #259736 by machinedude
It's pretty bad when you don't even have the new 3D printer and you start adding to the list of things you want to upgrade to and just have a better set up for printing in a wider range of materials and avoid preventable issues before they happen.

So I invested in filament dryer since sales seem to be going on now. while i was at it i picked up the bi-metal heat break and a nozzle package with different sizes and materials for some more range in filament choices. cheap upgrade to be able to get more into the higher temp materials. i seen a video were all that was needed to changed was settings in the firmware. so for a few bucks in upgrade parts seemed like a good move and for an added bonus the tip set has some cleaning tools for tips.

 

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17 Dec 2022 17:33 #259745 by tommylight
Filament dryer is waste of money, you have a heated bed, set it to 50 or 70 for PETG, put a lid on it.
Heatbreak is a must, PETG likes higher temps than what the internet says, so for slow printing 250, fast 265.
And do not bother with ABS and ASA, everything besides some specialised ones are cr@p.
Use HIPS, much better in every respect and can happily print at 245, with much, much better layer adhesion.
The following user(s) said Thank You: machinedude

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