deckel fp4ma retrofit
Can we assume that it doesn’t power up ... no display ... lights etc?
“by the way is there any way to bypass the "nc ready" and start the drivers?”
Yes – but the only why of doing that is going to be to connect an enable signal, or whatever the drive expects to see. There should be fairly obvious high voltage connections, to the transformer and the motors etc and then separate to that, the logic / control side. On the logic / control side you need to identify what’s connected by a process of elimination. 6 of the connections will be the +/-10V. Then Ov ... 24v etc. I would look in the back of my cabinet but I can’t get to it at the moment.
If you look at page 9 of “Blue to Red - Part 2-optimized.pdf” that Andy sent you, that’s a wring diagram for my FP2. Yours might be different but it might help. You need to try and trace some of the wiring to the drive ignoring the motor, tacho and power connections. See how many things are connected and try to work out what’s what from there.
If the Dialog control powers up, it may be worth looking at the contractor that isn’t working as that might be stopping the drive enable. If you can get past that, then it would make life easier trying to work out what the drive enable signals are by looking at changes with meter.
Your system has DC servos with tachometers. A +/- 10V analogue control signal into the drive is interpreted as a motor speed request. The tachometer on the motor is motor speed feedback, and is used to close a velocity feedback loop.
The controller reads the glass scales on the machine slides and from that it knows the current position. It then sends velocity commands to the drives to control the position loop.
A step-dir drive needs position feedback from the motor, almost always from an encoder on the motor.
The current system of velocity-mode drives and direct position feedback from the machine slides is just about the best system available. It would be a retrograde step to change that.
The drives will have interlock/enable inputs. You will just have to study the wiring diagrams until you work out which they are.
Can you confirm that you received the wiring diagrams?
The control seems to be reading at least 2 of your 3 LINEAR encoders.
Something is preventing the control from enabling the drive. You mentioned a damaged contactor.
It will be there for a reason so that might be a good place to look as it may well be preventing the control form enabling the drive, along with everything else.
I don't know what the start up sequence is for the dialog control.
There should be an initial power on and then when its on, it will want to reference (home) all the axis. If the Dialog control is "waking up" and reading the encoders, it suggests that fundamentally there is nothing wrong with the control itself, it just isn't seeing the right conditions to enable the drive and allow axis movement. Do you get any error message on the control display?
I would have thought that it would tell you what it wasn't happy about?
There isn't something daft like any of the E-stop buttons locked in the E-stop position? worth checking. I myself have fallen for that one and indulged in a 4 hour multi meter fault finding mission to find out that the night before id inadvertently bumped into a remote e-stop mushroom . (AP - yes ... Peroni related!)
You have two choices. Find out why the control wont enable the drive, or work out what it needs to manually enable it with a 24V connection.
There could even be a switch on procedure for the control that you're not following. have a look at the flip over cards and see if that sheds any light on things.
There should be a lot of clunking going on in the cabinet when you try to enable the control, as it operates various contactors.......
There may even be an E-stop signal running through the damaged contactor, in which case it will never enable. If any of the wires on the broken contactor are red, that would indicate to me that its part of the E-stop loop. From memory, the only red wires in my cabinet relate to the e-stop loop.
bahrabadi wrote: .my main concern is to replace the controller becuase lets say if it can be fixed ;what good it will do?an old controller that couldnt accept gcodes from cam softwares.my goal is to make sure my drivers are ok then searching for a way to use mach3 or linuxcnc as a controller
The point of getting the original controller to work is to prove that all the other parts of the machine work. It is much easier to change the controller when youa re certain that the rest of the machine is at least capable of working.
The original controller does use g-code, it probably can be used with your CAM system.