Parting Off
- BigJohnT
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06 Nov 2010 12:47 #5110
by BigJohnT
Parting Off was created by BigJohnT
I noticed that my Dorian parting tool seemed to be designed to be below center to get full depth. I've not tried it below center... Do you guys normally part off with the top of the insert on center?
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
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- BigJohnT
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06 Nov 2010 14:09 #5111
by BigJohnT
Replied by BigJohnT on topic Re:Parting Off
Now that I think about it that question doesn't make any sense as to part of you need to be in center to get a full cut off.
John
John
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- piasdom
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07 Nov 2010 17:48 #5140
by piasdom
Replied by piasdom on topic Re:Parting Off
all part-off tools i've use do go below center. but i think there are some that are designed to be on
center and even just above.
center and even just above.
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- BigJohnT
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08 Nov 2010 12:49 #5161
by BigJohnT
Replied by BigJohnT on topic Re:Parting Off
How much below center do you set your parting tool?
John
John
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- piasdom
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08 Nov 2010 22:25 #5169
by piasdom
Replied by piasdom on topic Re:Parting Off
about a 1/32"(.79mm) to an 1/16"(1.59mm), depending on the insert or shape of tool.
i cut a 3" piece with a 1/8" insert. i set the speed/feed and set back. you just have to make sure
the parting tool is 90deg to the stock. the deeper the cut the more accurate this needs to be. i just push the
tool against the chuck and tighten the tool on the tool post. if i go deeper, i usually indicate the tool.
i cut a 3" piece with a 1/8" insert. i set the speed/feed and set back. you just have to make sure
the parting tool is 90deg to the stock. the deeper the cut the more accurate this needs to be. i just push the
tool against the chuck and tighten the tool on the tool post. if i go deeper, i usually indicate the tool.
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03 Aug 2012 05:48 - 03 Aug 2012 05:52 #22706
by dangercraft
Replied by dangercraft on topic Re:Parting Off
Hey John,
I seem to recall reading somewhere years ago that to set initial cut off height you should be .5-.8 degrees below center for a given outer radius. You will come in below as you approach center, but not by very much... even so the part will always shear off before you reach center. For large pieces (10cm+ radius) we usually use 1.0-1.6 degrees with a 90 degree tool edge set at negative 7 degrees - same as what you would use with a negative (TNMG, RNMG, etc) insert. Obviously when pieces get this big we stop the cut before the section fails and then finish the cut by hand. Of course, I might be wrong on this, so I'll ask one of our shop guys tomorrow to make sure.
Frank
I seem to recall reading somewhere years ago that to set initial cut off height you should be .5-.8 degrees below center for a given outer radius. You will come in below as you approach center, but not by very much... even so the part will always shear off before you reach center. For large pieces (10cm+ radius) we usually use 1.0-1.6 degrees with a 90 degree tool edge set at negative 7 degrees - same as what you would use with a negative (TNMG, RNMG, etc) insert. Obviously when pieces get this big we stop the cut before the section fails and then finish the cut by hand. Of course, I might be wrong on this, so I'll ask one of our shop guys tomorrow to make sure.
Frank
Last edit: 03 Aug 2012 05:52 by dangercraft.
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03 Aug 2012 12:57 #22720
by BigJohnT
Replied by BigJohnT on topic Re:Parting Off
Ok, that would be interesting to know. How do you set the angle?
John
John
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03 Aug 2012 13:37 #22722
by bobinater
Replied by bobinater on topic Re:Parting Off
John
As an Instructor I normally teach that the tool should be at or just below center,
and as square to the part as possible, the square up with the chuck or spindle nose is usually
good enough for a second op part. I normally use a high quality grooving tool if my part off is
the finished surface. (for thin walled parts of course) otherwise I will finish with a second op.
Bob
As an Instructor I normally teach that the tool should be at or just below center,
and as square to the part as possible, the square up with the chuck or spindle nose is usually
good enough for a second op part. I normally use a high quality grooving tool if my part off is
the finished surface. (for thin walled parts of course) otherwise I will finish with a second op.
Bob
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03 Aug 2012 14:03 #22724
by BigJohnT
Replied by BigJohnT on topic Re:Parting Off
That's pretty much how I do it on the CHNC except I've never used a grooving tool to part off with.
John
John
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03 Aug 2012 17:47 #22729
by dangercraft
Replied by dangercraft on topic Re:Parting Off
Hey John,
I ask over here and I found out I left out a critical detail. The height should be WITHIN the specific angle range (0-1.6 degrees) below the center, and this has to do with the rigidity of the tool and machine and the hardness of the material. The harder the material is the further close to the low end you'll want to be to keep the tool from grabbing or chattering.
To figure out how far below the cutting edge should be you just take the sin of the degree you want to use and multiply by your outer radius. This will give you the height below center in the same units as you measured your radius.
Saludos cordiales,
Frank
I ask over here and I found out I left out a critical detail. The height should be WITHIN the specific angle range (0-1.6 degrees) below the center, and this has to do with the rigidity of the tool and machine and the hardness of the material. The harder the material is the further close to the low end you'll want to be to keep the tool from grabbing or chattering.
To figure out how far below the cutting edge should be you just take the sin of the degree you want to use and multiply by your outer radius. This will give you the height below center in the same units as you measured your radius.
Saludos cordiales,
Frank
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