Have hardware...would like CNC

I have an overwhelming urge to create a CNC machine. My time allowed to work on this machine is limited for now. I look for a winter project.

I can give a list of hardware I have and maybe someone can offer suggestions as to what may be an efficient and versatile machine that can be upgraded in the future.

• Years ago, I purchased a kit of (4) Nema 34 1400 oz/in steppers with controllers, parallel breakout board, limit switches and stop button.
• (3) DC servos 1400 oz/in (no controllers yet)
• (2) 30mm x 1500mm lead screw with end supports and nuts
• (1) Van Norman 22L mill
• (1) Cincinnati #3MI with 3HP vertical head
• An old FE Reed lathe of 13"x30" (approximate) ripe for reconfiguration
• I-beams for structure 12" x 4" x 10'-15'
• Pallet rack beams for supports (8 feet long)
• Esab Plasma cutter (1.25")
• An extra PC with parallel port and USB ports for connection to a machine.
• I have a lot of tooling for the Cincinnati (NMTB50) but nothing for the Van Norman (R8 I believe)
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• I have a lead on a 230V 170A DC servomotor to power a lathe or other equipment

2 machines keep crossing mind. A mill and lathe. Making either of them CNC would make my year. Honestly, I would have to set aside time for them and I might finish one in a year. Perhaps, the one that would be the most important would be the CNC lathe, but I am unsure how to be able to configure it to be able to create threads without some sort of closed loop on the spindle. Also, multiple tools (would this be done with offsets?) or a tool changer would be fantastic

I am forever trying to make efficient and multi-use equipment. Swiss army knife-type of equipment. Admittedly, my designs are not always practical. I tend to overthink something to the point of being over-complicated. Guidance and suggestions are welcome and encouraged.

If you are local to me, I am happy to co-create and share.

LOL...true. I hadn't thought of how old the lathe was, just that it was a lathe. Calling it "Victorian" puts it into perspective for me. The spindle does rest within babbit bearing material. I did see a 901 on the lathe once. I'm not sure if it was actually 1901 or serial number 901. It is my understanding that babbit supported spindles are more accurate than ball bearing races when they are of proper clearances and lubricated. My question is how much power will be required to turn the spindle. This is why I suspect I may need a powerful spindle motor to overcome friction and automatically adjust IPM speeds to efficiently cut parts as large as the lathe will allow all the way down to center.

I don't mind being incorrect as I am quite often that way, but please enlighten me if I should be corrected.

This lathe is not the dainty lathes you might see in the images found online of the FE Reed lathes. While certainly of the Victorian era, it is not small like those I have seen elsewhere. It is bulky and heavy enough two men don't want try to lift it. When I bought it, the seller said the legs had already been sold to make a table. "Oh, POO!" I said as I saw them leaning against his house awaiting the buyer to arrive. Well, for $100, it would still be a nice project I could build and learn CNC on.

If the lathe can be identified, I would appreciate the information. Also, as I will not require the parts removed to make my lathe CNC, anyone that needs parts to restore their own lathe, I am willing to part with the parts for the cost of packaging, shipping and, if the buyer desires, a small gratuity

My lathe has sat for a while and will need to be cleaned up but everything moved when it was stored. I will need to determine what is required for use as a CNC lathe. The remaining parts will be stored if not requested by someone else.



As this can be a start to finish documentation of a conversion from a pretty complete lathe, should I just start another post to get input and possibly give insight to someone else wanting to do similar?

It adjusts the height of the cutting tool to the proper height for cutting. At least that is what I can think of. Before the assembly line and factories making all parts identical, there seemed to be a need for height adjustment. Cutting tool holders from differing manufacturers were often of different heights. Therefore, this was a simple way to adjust the cutting tool height rather than relying on shims under the tool holder in the lantern? There was an adjustment screw on the 1890 Cody lathe I owned as well. That lathe was small enough for two men to easily move about. Attractive too!

I wonder...not familiar with CNC lathes, is there a way to control a horizontal rotating tool holder that can turn the tool about the end of the work piece to not only cut the outer radius but rotate around the rim of the piece to smoothly cut the end and continue to cut the end or maybe even bore the work? At the very least, make a cut to make a concave shape in the end?

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_Reed_(inventor)


explains the pivot below:
www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/old-f-e-...h-metal-lathe.55201/

think it's called an "elevated rest"

archive.org/details/FEReedLathes/mode/2up

(learned something new, nice bit of kit)

I nearly converted a 1940s Winfield lathe to CNC..... problem was wear and what to do with leadscrews that are / were cast / threaded directly onto the saddle for the cross slide.....

came across a more modern CNC lathe and didn't waste money on trying to polish a turd.... ok a nice impressive piece of kit.... just not worth converting when there are better options about for not much monies.