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I wonder how this will end:


Be warned though, be seated before you search for the real price and have a glass of cold water near by!
I will need an ice cold shower if they call and say they can not ship it due to ....reasons!!!

Okay so I ordered a 7i76eu board a 10.9 touch screen a vandal resistant keyboard and mouse and a little fan less pc. 5v powersupply and a 24v powersupply. A incremental ebay linear encoder. I also programmed a little python program that will act as a gui.  

With carousel it should be possible but its a hard way

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

jimmyrig wrote:

Most printers are made of 80x20, which while it works in the short term, fails slowly over time. Bolts come loose, pom wheels (that ride in the 80x20) wear out, belts loose tension, etc.

You probably mean 8020 alu, the profile is mostly 20x20 and rarely 20x40.

unknown wrote:

If I see "game changer" in a another YT review I'll be quite upset and may commit an act of unfathomable violence upon society.

+1
And another thing:
Bambu is the best printer.......
Yes they are good, no doubt about it, but when they fail (and they do fail often) takes days or weeks to get them back, while the Voron you built yourself you can fix in about half an hour, while having a smoke or coffee or both!
So far, for nearly 5 years, the only things that failed on my Voron's is the cabling as i used very bad (well the best i could find) cables.

Most printers are made of 80x20, which while it works in the short term, fails slowly over time. Bolts come loose, pom wheels (that ride in the 80x20) wear out, belts loose tension, etc.

If your gonna build your own buy 1k in parts and make it with ball screws, linear rails, nema 23 motors, 400mm+ etc, steel frame preferably welded.

It'll take a lot longer to setup but will last for decades

I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a good time and have found it to be a good solid workhorse.
Far by the best mod was a glass build plate, was fighting with adhesion for a while, adhesion is that good now I have to use hairspray to be able to remove the printed item when it's all cooled down .
If I was to build my own I'd reduce the Z axis travel to about 150mm and probably go for about a 400x400 bed.
If I see "game changer" in a another YT review I'll be quite upset and may commit an act of unfathomable violence upon society.

could you show me a exmple? i dont understand how i can connect the carousel.comp with the spindle... i go in basement and checked again. m19r720p1 doesnt work...

i understand that this compnent is very useful but i dont understand how i can link it up with the spindle to turn the carousel.

I think it´s by design that everytime you generate the files, the rio.ini and several other files are overwritten. I have a bunch of customizations in several areas. E.G. Subroutine folder is different, Halui has custom MDI Commands,... 

At the moment I do manually copy the sections back. Is there a smarter way of doing that?

m19 r720 p1 doenst work. its limited value 0-360 this was the first i try.. i had another idea...

using 2 relays.. switching between 2 step/dir signals from the mesa.
when toolchange is called..

m5
g4 (some value)
switch the relay to get position mode from a stepgen
make the toolchange
toolhange done.. switch the relay back to the stepgen for velocity mode

this is the hardware solution... needs 3 extra pins... 1 for relays 2 for extra step/dir

but is this not possible without relays and inside the hal? thanks

I managed to find a way to spend a lot of money _and_ build the printer myself, by buying a self-assembly Prusa XL.
I don't regret it, though.

hitchhiker wrote:

m19 r360 p1
m5
m19 r360 p1
m5

 

This isn't the answer, nor even necessarily part of the answer, but M19 R720 P1 should work.

You couls consider using the carousel component and leave the spindle in velocity mode. Simoly use the spindle as a carousel motor and turn it on to change tools and off when the right tool is in position. (Use the slot sensor as the the strobe signal that "carousel" supports) 

Failures in spindle hal