SK Commander VFD Parms

snowgoer540 wrote:

smgvbest wrote:

Actually I'm doing my lathe so the Lathe .par file would really help.
When you have time it would be great to get that one as well

Which part of PA you in?
I'm in Sunbury just North of Columbus.

I'm still slowly, very slowly working on a DIY Tormach BOB so you could directly connect up.
I have the 1HP SK Commander for my lathe (a G0602) so and want to provide a direct route to using a PP with only a few INI changes, Needed. I may also add individual Home and I would have full control over the ATC port.

Everything is based on the PP config files so far.

I had some good HiRes photos of both the Lathe and MILL Tormach board but it seem when I lost a HD I lost those pics.
If you have any good pics of them that would be great as well if I could impose.

I'm sorry, I normally view recent and I must have missed this. Sounds like a really neat project! I'm happy to help.

I will try to get you the PAR file by the weekend. I am happy to take pictures. I can do both the lathe, mill, and I have the new board the MX's use as I am getting ready to upgrade my 1100S3 to servos since I got a really good deal on the board and servos. Plus, I'm sick of editing the hal files every time they update to keep my spindle encoder alive.

Shoot me an email, I'll send you the pictures there if you want since the quality will get clipped on here.

I am about 15 minutes north of Harrisburg.

Sent you a email just now.
Thank you for the assist

MrJTJinx wrote:

smgvbest wrote:

I am in the USA, Ohio

Thats just down the road from Jon Saunders at NYCCNC/Saunders machine works
have you been, do you follow him on youtube
It would be amazing if you went to one of his training sessions and told him you had a Tormach clone.
Re your schmatic, ive had good results from JLCPCB for fabricating printed circuit boards
jlcpcb.com/ really cheap and good quality, dont forget "America first" which is exactly what you are doing, making sure you dont pay too much.

I don't watch as much of John as I used too and yes he's about 45-60 minutes or so from me. But then I don't watch as much youtube period as I used to.

I've used JCLPCB, PCBWAY and others, JLCPCB has been my most reliable and quickest delivery so far.
I'm over on EEVBLOG also as SMGVBEST and currently repairing a E4407B Tracking Gen. Though its been on hold for some time

When I am not in a hurry I do use oshpark. good quality but slower to deliver. however jlcpcb does have steaper shipping costs which is a down side.

smgvbest wrote:

I've used JCLPCB, PCBWAY and others, JLCPCB has been my most reliable and quickest delivery so far.
I'm over on EEVBLOG also as SMGVBEST and currently repairing a E4407B Tracking Gen. Though its been on hold for some time

I've just designed a couple of boards and ended up just buying the prototype boards from JLPCB and a mate is going to solder them up for me. JLPCB only chooses parts from their library which was a stumbling block for assembly one board.

So when the time comes to get a few boards made, where is the best place to go? Being in Australia, China is the normal source.

rodw wrote:

smgvbest wrote:

I've used JCLPCB, PCBWAY and others, JLCPCB has been my most reliable and quickest delivery so far.
I'm over on EEVBLOG also as SMGVBEST and currently repairing a E4407B Tracking Gen. Though its been on hold for some time

I've just designed a couple of boards and ended up just buying the prototype boards from JLPCB and a mate is going to solder them up for me. JLPCB only chooses parts from their library which was a stumbling block for assembly one board.

So when the time comes to get a few boards made, where is the best place to go? Being in Australia, China is the normal source.

For board assemble you should be able to supply parts yourself, cost different since your going outside their process so you pay a premium. I'm not familiar with your area for board assembly. hopefully someone can help you there

Thanks, I managed to source all of the components locally and the components were generally cheaper than the Chinese quotes. I bought a digital microscope which looks like it would be pretty handy and am wondering about buying a small oven. in the meantime my mate now has everything to do the job.

It has still cost a bit but I did not want to buy $2k-$3k worth of boards without knowing if they would work or not!

rodw wrote:

Thanks, I managed to source all of the components locally and the components were generally cheaper than the Chinese quotes. I bought a digital microscope which looks like it would be pretty handy and am wondering about buying a small oven. in the meantime my mate now has everything to do the job.

It has still cost a bit but I did not want to buy $2k-$3k worth of boards without knowing if they would work or not!

that is a sad fact of board design. having to re-spin a new board because of some trace you missed or got wrong. kicking yourself for it because now it's so obvious and you missed it. sending off for a new board run then you do it again. don't ask me how I know

Thats what I do like about JLCPCB and other quick turn around PCB shops. you can get the new board done, get a new prototype validate then place the large order

I use a standard inspection microscope with a .5x barlow on it to increase the working distance. its a tri-noc so a camera up top when I need one also.

smgvbest wrote:

that is a sad fact of board design. having to re-spin a new board because of some trace you missed or got wrong. kicking yourself for it because now it's so obvious and you missed it. sending off for a new board run then you do it again. don't ask me how I know

Thats what I do like about JLCPCB and other quick turn around PCB shops. you can get the new board done, get a new prototype validate then place the large order

I use a standard inspection microscope with a .5x barlow on it to increase the working distance. its a tri-noc so a camera up top when I need one also.

You fill me with confidence! My microscope is definitely in the budget category but when it turned up, it will work pretty well.

Yes, already the changes are queuing up!

One is a shield for a 7i73 that also lets an Odroid H2+ PC hook up to for RS485 (I hope!) and the other is a simple I/O board that can be daisy chained together with a DB9 cable so you can quickly connect home and limit switches on both sides of the gantry. It can also be used for triggering solenoids (say for air activated downdraft zones on a plasma table) Originally, I thought there would be 3 I/O boards but I managed to fold it all into one part!

For documentation purposes only

Here's what I have worked out on the Tormach Lathe Control Board so far

Few items to note
24Vdc in > SMPS @ 5Vdc and 12Vdc at U6 for Control Panel
AC in Isolated and switched via relays

Encoder is Differential in to singled ended out direct to Mesa Card
ATC has 9 Digital lines going to it
Drives have Octal Line Driver
VFD has B2 connected but not configured in Parms


See attached for what I've identified

Just wanted to provide a quick update.

I have a Teensy 4.1 setup running FreeRTOS with ChargePump detection and generating the Door and Limit switch input (freq based) working. I'll add MachineOK soon which is really a few items, ChargePump must be there (500Hz), Emergency Stop must not be Tripped, Tormach kills AC power the board for this and it looks like they do a simple peak detector circuit. if Present the Emergency stop is not tripped. so Basically it's MachineOK = ChargePump + AC Detect . I feed this to Enable Steppers and VFD. If not present motion is disabled at the hardware level.

Next will be to hook it up to PP and see if it comes up ok.
Only Signals needed to test are ChargePump from PP, DoorSW, MachineOK and I should have PP able to come out of Reset state. Or that's my hope.

I had some issues with FreeRTOS in that I was doing everything in C++ with Classes and FreeRTOS is not written to support that. I have it working with my TormachBob Class