deckel fp4ma retrofit

There are tachos on both of them, 2V/krpm. i can not see any reference to encoders on the plate, and the pictures do not show the complete motors. Maybe a search for motor models can reveal more.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhat control does / did the machine have?
Is the control broken? ... what functionality do you have?
It's likely to be either a Heidenhain TNC 300 series or a Grundig Dialog 11.
I know nothing about the Grundig control.
I have an FP2 with a Heidenhain TNC 315. You should have Heidenhain glass scale linear encoders on all the axis. There are no encoders on the motors or ball screws.
The encoders will likely have an 11ua sinusoidal output and a 20 micron grating pitch. Definitely if it's a Heidenhain control, very likely if its Grundig.
The TNC would read and interpolate these directly. The MESA 7i77 wont so you will need to put interpolators between the encoders and the 7i77.
There are plenty on EBay and they range from 5 fold interpolation and 400 fold interpolation.
A 5 fold interpolator will convert your 20 (micron) / 5 (interpolation) /4 (quadrature) giving you in theory 1 micron positioning accuracy.

You will need to check the spec properly, that was just an example.
www.heidenhain.com/en_US/products/subseq...nics/exe-600-series/
There should be several M23 plugs in the back of the cabinet coming from the encoders. these need to be plugged into the exe units and then a cable made up from the EXE to the 7i77
They will probably be labelled X1,X2 and X3 .... X Y and Z encoders accordingly.
The bosch control will be expecting a +/-10V signal so the inputs to the drive can be wired straight to the 7i77. There will also be one or more enable signals and possibly a "drive ok" signal back to the control.
I would leave everything on the output side of the drive, motors, tachos ... cables .... everything well alone. Don't touch the pots on the cards that are in the drive.
You should be able to test the movement of the axis by applying a small voltage to the drive inputs ...0.5 ... 1V for example, and make sure the axis move. Once you have managed to get the drive enabled that is.
if you can get the axis moving, then try wiring the encoders to the 7i77 and monitor the position signals in HAL monitor or HALscope.
Once you know you are reading the encoder signals ok and have made sure that the axis are moving in the correct directions, then start off with very low PID settings and start to tune the PID in Linux CNC. I can't remember what the pots do, but my advice would be only to twiddle with them if you can't get good following error by tuning in LinuxCNC.
Apart from possible new brushes in the motors, if all is as it should be, you shouldn't need to worry about the motors or the drive.
On the LV side of the drive, there will be 3 "pairs" for the 3 axis control signals which should be pretty obvious. Identify these and then see what else is left and try to work out by a process of elimination what s what. One will be 0v and one will be a 24V supply for example. you should be able to find these by continuity test to the 0v and 24V supply.
Leave all the motors as they are and try to get the drive up, move the axis manually by applying a small input voltage and see what's working and what's not. Unless the drive is shagged, once enabled there should be too much to worry about, but that's the starting point.

As Andy points out, the drive will not "enable" unless it sees the relevant signals from the control.
The LEDs on my drive are all red until I press the "NC ON" button and the control is happy with everything and then it will enable the drive. Assuming that you have a defective control, and that's the reason for the retrofit, you will never get the the drive to enable just by powering everything up. ... Hence the red LEDs

The photos of controller
P.s by the way is there any way to bypass the "nc ready" and start the drivers?

Ok that looks like a Grundig Dialog 4 so its all going to be very different to my FP2 and Heidenhain control.
Can we assume that it doesn’t power up ... no display ... lights etc?
“by the way is there any way to bypass the "nc ready" and start the drivers?”
Yes – but the only why of doing that is going to be to connect an enable signal, or whatever the drive expects to see. There should be fairly obvious high voltage connections, to the transformer and the motors etc and then separate to that, the logic / control side. On the logic / control side you need to identify what’s connected by a process of elimination. 6 of the connections will be the +/-10V. Then Ov ... 24v etc. I would look in the back of my cabinet but I can’t get to it at the moment.
If you look at page 9 of “Blue to Red - Part 2-optimized.pdf” that Andy sent you, that’s a wring diagram for my FP2. Yours might be different but it might help. You need to try and trace some of the wiring to the drive ignoring the motor, tacho and power connections. See how many things are connected and try to work out what’s what from there.
If the Dialog control powers up, it may be worth looking at the contractor that isn’t working as that might be stopping the drive enable. If you can get past that, then it would make life easier trying to work out what the drive enable signals are by looking at changes with meter.

sorry for the delay but i was busy with my classes.about the motors,i took some pictures and i turned the machine on.but it seemes nothing could start the dirvers.there was no sensor for door or anything else.I am looking for a way to start the drivers despite all the other interlocks.I mean connect it directly to power line or so.I want to be sure that drivers are ok and then move on to next level .otherwise i should replace the drives with new and beter ones that could take step/direction pulses.and about the motors;what kind of encoder they use?and what is two cylindrecal shapes do?