Hardinge CHNC retrofit- Another one on the way!
yes the spindle is nothing more than an overgrown servo motor , so can be used as a c axis , the spindle also has a resolver for screwcutting etc
all the amps use standard 10v analog dc inputs , so the conversion is mostly straightforward .
scaling is done from within linuxcnc and configured in the hal files
their are a few hardinge conversions done by Linuxcnc members , so your not alone
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It was possibly done to increase the output of the tacho for improved feedback at the low rpms typical of lathe feed rates.The resolver is kinda a strange duck, Hardinge mechanically geared the tach and resolver up 5:1 vs the ball screw. I think this was done to increase the accuracy of the machine
LinuxCNC doesn't care, it will just need to be factored in the resolver-revs-per-inch scaling.
You can either keep the tachs and drives, swap to other velocity drives and keep the tachs, or swap to torque-mode drives and ignore the tachs.
I would probably start by seeing what works
![:-) :-)](/media/kunena/emoticons/smile.png)
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On the attached schematic, I jumped pin E to pin B to disable feed hold. next you just need to apply a voltage to pin H, with ground at pin G, to move the other direction reverse the polarity. I used a AA battery with some wire taped to the ends. You might want to remove the drive belts from at least the x axis for safety reasons. By doing this you are effectivley forcing the motor on. The slides will not respond to the limit swithces so you can crash the axis into its end of travel if not carefull.
If i wan't to do this test on my lathe do I need the machine to be powered up as well or will the battery provide enough to test. and where is the connector located (XTB1)?
thanks
Bob
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I will have to trace the power wires back to their origination to determine which of the transformers is the correct one.
I think it is in the power distribution center on the tailstock end of the lathe.
will work on the lathe all day tomorrow. and let you guys know what I come up with
By the way our local raido shack is no more I was counting on them for the electircal supplies I will be needing
now every thing will be ordered on line
Bob
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Jumpered pins b-e and applied 1.5v across g-h with power to servos a104 v d.c
and got no movement at all so either the servos are bad or the motors are what would you suggest as my next move.
Bob
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The fans and such turn on when power is applied to the controll, but the controll is technically not on. You will need to find the relay that turns the controll cabinet on. Mine was Cr 6. The main conroll "ON" relay will supply power to the 90 volt transformer as well as all the other relays. You should be able to measure 90v at your servo drive if you have done this correctly. Then you can use the battery method to test your drives. XTB1 is the main input terminal on your hi-ak drives. If you look closely they should be labeled and match the diagram I posted.
Is there any way to activate this relay (i assume it is a solid state relay on the head-stock end of the lathe ) I did find cr6 but am not sure if it is the relay in question. I do have a schematic but it is approximately 100 pages of gibberish me, I can not find the schematic in question.
I was ab;e to get the 90 v at the hi ak drives but still got no response from the servo motors, which are permanent mag.
Bob
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If you have 90v dc at the input of the Hiack drive ,the contactor is pulled down.If you then apply a small dc voltage,the motor should move.These are very old drives.Th black relays in the plc cab have nothing to do with the drive system,all of that is in the 550t cab.The amps are no good.
I recently gave t 2 working Hiacks from my Hardinges to Warren at uptime electronics.Maybe he will give you a deal on them.You could also run the motors at 80v,ur rapids will be a little slower,and buy two used AMC 30a8t's for 35.00 each off ebay....there is a guy who has a never ending supply.They will not run at 90v, 80 v + 10%.They trip at 88.5.
Keep in mind,those old hiacks were designed in the late 60's/early 70's...
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#1. I can’t figure out how to enable the main spindle drive in order to test it. I think the drive has 2 enable pins, A, D and 2 feed hold pins, B and C. I grounded pin A and D and jumped the brake relay and the spindle will move freely when turned by hand, however no luck in getting it to turn with a dc voltage. I think the remaining pins B and C are the problem. I’m not sure what they do exactly or what voltage they are looking for. I’m a little scared to ground them since It could damage the amp. I measured 50 vdc on pin L with the amps powered up and O v on pin B if that helps anybody understand what’s going on. The schematic I have doesn’t really clarify what those pins do exactly. The circuit between L and A, D is a little confusing, I’m not sure what “coolant ol's" are or what all the hash marks signify?
Next problem is the MPG, I have a Fanuc remote mpg pendant, that I was hoping to use, however since I ended up going with the 7i49, I don’t have any way to get the signal into Emc. The board I am using has a parallel port, so i guess I need to get a separate encoder input board that is geared toward the parallel port?
Fanuc mpg
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