Light Machine Corp. Benchman XTr (retrofit)

Steve,
I assume that you are referring to the Copley controls on our machine, and they are not lighted at all, red or green.
When I test for power on J10 I get 0 so they are getting nothing.

F5 test good.


TG

Well no lights.... THAT'S better! The Copley Controllers derive their power from the servo voltage supply. So the fuse is good and the next question is are you getting power from the transformer, Full Wave Bridge and inductor. So at connector J9 on pins 2 and 3 you should see 50V DC (I thought it was at least 70V DC but there should be some large DC voltage in that range.)

Steve,
I was checking J9 and thought it was J10. Was looking for AC voltage there.
Getting 2.9vDC on post for black and white wire, but 0 when I probe the wires with the plug installed.
TG

I think you've found your problem... or at least you're really close. I had to refer back to some photos I took of my machine before I gutted the power supply. Also, my board is a little but different but the electronics are very similar. The numbering system is off but they are basically the same machine. Now I have to caution you... you're about to get into the 240VAC so you have to determine for yourself how safe you feel in your ability to work around high voltage. I know it scares me but I'm kind of like Bugs Bunny hitting bombs on the detonator to see if they are duds... so far so good. That being said ... there are two big honker coils in the middle of the machine and a full wave bridge rectifier that are supposed to supply you with the 50-70VDC you are supposed to be seeing across the white and black wires. From my photos, the black wire comes from the full wave bridge rectifier and the white goes into another coil and then into the rectifier. This is essentially the bigger coil acting as a transformer, the full wave rectifier converting it to DC and the smaller coil acting as a smoothing inductor for the output. What I would do is, with the power off, disconnect the spade connectors for the black (and green/yellow wire on my machine) and the white wire, power on the machine and see if I have DC voltage on those terminal on the Full Wave. If yes the inductor coil is open if no then there may be a problem with the transformer coil. SO if no, then I would look at the Drive Pilot light. If it is illuminated, the the transformer coil is likely open. If the pilot light is off then you are at page 1 of the schematic at co-ordinate 3 B and that is the circuit to examine next. It's a bit exciting because I'm thinking you can absolutely fix this. Good luck.

Steve,
I am not able to send pics from my phone and did not bring camera so I will do my best to describe what I see.
J9 has 3 terminals with Y/G, BK and WH wires.The BK goes to the center of the machine near the large donut coils into the bottom LH terminal, along with a different Y/G wire, of a square block with 4 spade terminals potted into place...Fuse?...Ohms about 3.8 across legs.
The white goes into the smaller coil then WH out to lower RH spade on block.
The upper RH spade has a tan wire to the larger coil and then another tan wire from the large coil is attached to the upper LH spade. Coming from the large coil are 4 wires; WH,Y,O,Grey to plug J3 on the bottom of the main board.

TAN(lg coil) TAN(lg Coil)
BK/GR(J9) WH(sm coil)

There is no voltage AC or DC on any of the 4 wires or terminals with the machine powered.
Drive Pilot Light? Full wavwe Rectifier?
TG

Big control board has a relay to switch high voltage AC to the transformer. Most likely it this relay is not engaged.

TGTropic, The square block is the full wave Bridge rectifier. If there is no voltage coming in I don't think that is the issue, it's a solid state device and they are usually pretty reliable. It takes AC into the terminals the brown wires go into and delivers + and - DC out of the White and Black wires. Azik1 is correct. there is a relay that switches AC to the big Donut coil. That big coil is the step down transformer. It is plugged into the main board. On MY board it plugs in on the lower left corner of the board.there is a black box that is the relay and right next to it is a white connector with 4 wires that is the connector to the coil. A quick check to see if it is energized is to look at the Drive pilot light. It is on the back of the machine case on the upper right. There are two green neon pilot lights and I believe it is the second one. If the relay energizes then that neon pilot light should turn on. If it's off, then the relay isn't switching and that's the next thing to explore. Also, you have a series of circuit breakers across the top on the back and one set is labeled Servo. when these trip they push that white part out. You might have a look at those just to be sure.

Steve,
The 4 wire plug from the big coil plugs into the lower RH of the main board J3, as looking into the machine from the back.
The Drive lite is out.
None of the breakers are tripped.
TG

TGTropic Well that complicates things.... Your board is different than mine but if the schematic is correct then it's a very confusing situation. According to the schematic, the relay should energize when you get the cr_drv_pwr signal. Probably a +24V signal. That should also light LED8, which you have already said is off. So we are back to the Nextmove card. The conclusion is that you are not getting that signal. However, you swapped with a computer that has a known working card so you must have had that signal on that test if it were the Nextmove card you currently have. Unless something is grounding out that signal. So D4, D8, D17, R12 shorted or K4, K6 relay coil shorted. Also a bad cable from the Nextmove Card to the Benchman Or a broken wire from the connector on the Benchman to the control board are possibilities. My experience says that most diodes and resistors are pretty bullet proof though I have seen them fail. The coils are a real possibility but I guess the most likely thing is a bad cable from the Nextmove Card or broken wire. Kind of running out of options here. You might try swapping the cable and see if that does anything.

TG,

This is the spare board I got with my machine, I'm thinking is should be the same as yours.

Rex