1 or 2 dedicated 120VAC circuits for my CNC?

Ok, we wrote simultaneously. So for the output specs:

Your 24 V supply kind of makes sense: 24V×2.5A = 60W, effective input current should be 60W/120V = 0.5A (plus some wasted heat). If it has no power factor correction I guess the real/reactive current could be much worse though. I'd still feel comfortable derating it for 120V: 1.8A/120V×85V = about 1.3 A.

The 60 V supply is weird. 20 A at 60 V is 1200 W. That would be >14 A at 85 V! So I have no idea what their thinking was there.

Unfortunately the 60V PSU I purchased from Alibaba and the spec sheet is a little messy, like most documentation from China. Because they offer many different models with different specs on the same product page, they don't pay much attention when they are creating the individual spec sheets. My spec sheet is for a 120VAC PSU but there are references to the 240VAC model. And my model is 1200W but there is reference to the 1500W model. So not the most reliable spec sheet. But here is a link to the one they provided me. I hope it answers the questions.

60V PSU Spec Sheet

The 24V PSU is a:

Mean Well MDR-60-24 DIN-Rail Power Supply 24V 2.5 Amp 60W
 

Question about the IoT Power Relay. Since the IoT Relay has a relay built in (2xNO, 1xNC), would I still need another relay in my cabinet in order to trigger the IoT relay? It is my understanding that the IoT relay can take an input voltage of 3.3V-48V. Couldn't I just run a Digital Out (24V) to the + side of the IoT relay and then pull from the negative of the PSU for the - side of the IoT relay? Then in LCNC assign the Digital Out to trigger when the E-stop circuit (Digital In) is activated?

You can still pull this off with 120vac.

There are 30A "RV" receptacles available for 120vac circuits. They're used to connect RV's to shore power at campsites.

If you add a 30A breaker and a dedicated 30A receptacle to your box you should be able to power everything (including the router) from a single cord.

Most hardware stores and Scamazon have these 30A receptacles & matching plugs available.  According to the NEC ampacity chart, you'll need 10AWG conductors if you use portable power cord rated for 90c.

Easiest thing to do would be buy the 30A breaker, receptacle, an "RV" plug that matches the receptacle, and 10' or so of 2-conductor (plus ground) SJOOW cord.

EDIT - remember you'll need 10AWG from the breaker to the receptacle, too.  This stuff gets expensive when you need big amps.

I like that idea but unfortunately I already ordered my 20A breakers for my panel. I will have to see how much of a hassle it would be to return.

I added the IoT Power Relay (to shut off router when E-stop is pressed) to my E-stop circuit drawing. Because it has a built in relay, I am wondering if this is how I would add it to my system? My thought is I could trigger terminal "do 01" ON when the E-stop button is pressed just like terminal "do 00". Would this work?

[url] drive.google.com/file/d/1MT1tXdgEZn4DbXC...Dn3/view?usp=sharing [/url]

Thanks

Give me a minute, I'm cooking up a diagram for you that has everything you need...

EDIT...
Diagram attached.  Has a two button on/off function to energize the system and keep it from turning back on in the event of a power loss.

Also allows LCNC to control the spindle on/off, but both the drive power supply and spindle will be de-energized if you press the estop.

None of the user buttons have more than 24VDC going through them.

Let me know if you need further explanation.  Breakers/fuse ratings are up to you.

BTW, I'm not a fan of SSR's for safety or critical stuff as they tend to fail closed (i.e. energized) and don't break the circuit.