Sticking Home/Limit Switches - Please help

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01 Jun 2017 14:17 #93938 by McAdam

So, the voltages at the screw terminals behave correctly, but the values on the parallel port pins don't.
How curious.

You could try measuring the voltages on each side of the opto-couplers (input and output pairs)


When machine is not enabled 9.0v & 8.1v
When Machine is enabled 9.6v & 7.6v
When Switch is Triggered 8.6v & 9.6v

When Stuck is same as when machine is enbabled

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01 Jun 2017 14:19 #93939 by McAdam

I am away for a few days. But I take it you are using a correct type of PP cable as they are not always pin to pin. Try another one.


It is a good quality (Lindy) Straight through DB25 Cable. If it was not pinned to pin would I also have some other issues?

I can try and see If I can get another one from amazon, but I am fairly certain this one is good

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01 Jun 2017 15:02 #93946 by tommylight
That is a 5V BOB, so nowhere shout it have 9V.
Remove the step down converter from 12V to 5V, that might be the problem ( i can bet my pinky it is), some do the switching on the negative side so having both grounds together makes some trouble,
Get a USB cable, insert it on the motherboard and to the BOB, remove the step down converter, all should be good, although the optos might have gone the way of the DODO!

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01 Jun 2017 15:09 #93947 by McAdam

That is a 5V BOB, so nowhere shout it have 9V.
Remove the step down converter from 12V to 5V, that might be the problem ( i can bet my pinky it is), some do the switching on the negative side so having both grounds together makes some trouble,
Get a USB cable, insert it on the motherboard and to the BOB, remove the step down converter, all should be good, although the optos might have gone the way of the DODO!


I have tried without the Step Down Converter and just USB cable, same thing happens.

Anyway to test/diagnose the optoisolators?

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01 Jun 2017 15:18 #93948 by tommylight
I do not think it would be the same as you would at least have 5V on the inputs instead of 9V you are getting now.
In any case, remove the converter, almost all of the cheap ones do switching on the negative side, so they can not have - or gnd attached to any other source. I have plenty of them, all do switching on negative side.
Use USB cable. To test the optos, just measure the voltage on their outputs while closing the corresponding limit switch. Just check to see if they have common ground or common +, so attach one of the terminals to the gnd or +5V and the other terminal carefully to the output of the opto coupler.

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01 Jun 2017 15:42 #93951 by Todd Zuercher
Tommy I think you may be wrong. I'm pretty sure the input side of the input optos are powered from the 12-24v.

It seems to me like when you have more than a couple of the inputs active the voltage there is dropping below a critical level for them.

Would it be too much trouble for you to test the board with more than a 12v supply (closer to the 24v). (It might be that an additional external pull-up might be nessisary when using the minimal 12v supply.)

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01 Jun 2017 15:53 #93954 by McAdam

It seems to me like when you have more than a couple of the inputs active the voltage there is dropping below a critical level for them.

Would it be too much trouble for you to test the board with more than a 12v supply (closer to the 24v). (It might be that an additional external pull-up might be nessisary when using the minimal 12v supply.)


Hmm.... I dont have anything higher, I guess I could just order something with Amazon.

OR Crazy thought,

I could test with the 18V battery from my drill.... Hmmmmm.... Ghetto/Macgyver Engineering

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01 Jun 2017 15:54 #93955 by tommylight
Had 2 of them, they have finicky inputs and highly sensitive to interference, so i added some more pull up resistors and they are still working on plasma cutters, but i can not recall in any way or form it mentioned anything other than 5V anywhere, except on the relay output.
Then again, reading through a Chinese manual is like .......add your own comment here...... :).
Comes to think of it, they do have a jumper for choosing the USB or terminal power. Did you check that?

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01 Jun 2017 15:57 - 01 Jun 2017 16:06 #93956 by tommylight


OR Crazy thought,

I could test with the 18V battery from my drill.... Hmmmmm.... Ghetto/Macgyver Engineering


Aaaaand lots of smoke if something goes wrong !!! :) Those batteries can release quite some power in an instance!
Use a resistor of anything from 1 to 10 ohm in series with the battery. More=safer.

Found it ! It has 12-24V input but for 0-10V PWM output only ! I used them for plasma so i did not bother with that. Everything else on the board is 5V.


Those are 74HC245, Absolute maximum 7V, normal operating voltage 5.5V max.
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Last edit: 01 Jun 2017 16:06 by tommylight.

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01 Jun 2017 16:04 #93958 by McAdam

Had 2 of them, they have finicky inputs and highly sensitive to interference, so i added some more pull up resistors and they are still working on plasma cutters, but i can not recall in any way or form it mentioned anything other than 5V anywhere, except on the relay output.
Then again, reading through a Chinese manual is like .......add your own comment here...... :).
Comes to think of it, they do have a jumper for choosing the USB or terminal power. Did you check that?


I think we might have slightly different boards.

The only jumper on this one is to switch PIN 1 between relay and B AXIS pins.

Without 12v+ the inputs are dead.

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