Inputs & outputs & relays ohmic

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24 May 2019 08:11 #134787 by rodw
I really think you should forget ohmic sensing and just make hunting knives so you can get away with a float switch on thick material. I got as far as drilling and tapping a threaded hole into the end cap of my last plasma torch so I cold attach a wire. But I got cold feet before I wired it in once I considered the circuit required and it scared me!

The other alternative which would be much safer would be to use a pneumatic cylinder to lower a probe and ohmic sense off it. Just use one of Tommy's drawer slides! You should be able to trigger it off the ohmic enable signal. If you can sell that idea to Phill, I'm sure that any required modifications will find their way into plasmac!
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24 May 2019 08:21 - 24 May 2019 08:23 #134788 by phillc54

rodw wrote: I really think you should forget ohmic sensing and just make hunting knives

Do you have a link to your knives?


The other alternative which would be much safer would be to use a pneumatic cylinder to lower a probe and ohmic sense off it. Just use one of Tommy's drawer slides! You should be able to trigger it off the ohmic enable signal. If you can sell that idea to Phill, I'm sure that any required modifications will find their way into plasmac!

I seem to recall that someone asked about something like that earlier in the piece, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to add something in.

Cheers, Phill.
Last edit: 24 May 2019 08:23 by phillc54.
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24 May 2019 08:38 #134791 by rodw
Well, the probe would stick lower than the torch I think all you would need is an ohmic offset like you have for the float switch and trigger it off the Ohmic enable relay as the air ram extension would be pretty instant.

Something like this is as cheap as chips

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24 May 2019 14:05 #134811 by JTknives
The issue with the 30XP is you only have 2 types of shields. The drag shield which has the .060 built into it and the fine cut which alows the nozzle to be drug right on the steel. So I have been modding the drag shields on the lathe and taking off the extra nibs on the end so I can have a gap. I have a set of machine shields for the 45xp being delivered today and I’m hoping I can get them to work on the 30XP.
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24 May 2019 23:04 #134857 by phillc54

JTknives wrote: So I have been modding the drag shields on the lathe and taking off the extra nibs on the end so I can have a gap.

I had thought that I would need to do that, does it work ok?

I have a set of machine shields for the 45xp being delivered today and I’m hoping I can get them to work on the 30XP.

I am interested in how that turns out.

Cheers, Phill.

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24 May 2019 23:53 #134860 by tommylight
@JTK
That looks perfect! BTW that is an IGBT ( insulated gate bipolar transistor ), so it's a combination of a MOSFET and a transistor in one package.
That simplifies things a lot, and adding a diode is a good idea. Just make sure the relay is a bigger one with at least 1 cm between the pins, to be on the safe side. It will require a bit more current to activate, but won't hurt anything, usually they draw 30 to 60mA.

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