Retrofitting a 1986 Maho MH400E

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07 Nov 2019 06:10 #149805 by cgroth
Hi there,

I finally got a place for my MH 300 C and have it running still using the 432/9. Unfortunatly the conversion sill suffers from a lack of spare time.
You should definitely have a look on this website:
www.heidenhain.de/de_DE/software/
Information on the TNC135 is more or less complete, also in english:

And for those of you fiddeling around with the Philips you have to know that this system was sold as CNC 3000:

V1XX to V4XX will fit to most of the 432/9, V5XX to V600 to 432/10 running a 80286 processor and V7XX for the 80386.
Good luck!
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07 Nov 2019 06:56 #149808 by db1981
Hi brad,
Post a Photo from the tnc After power up, please .

Db

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07 Nov 2019 07:21 #149812 by RotarySMP
I speak german, so if you have any questions on it, ask away.
The following user(s) said Thank You: chris mcm

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07 Nov 2019 08:10 #149814 by db1981
Hi Brad,

i am native german.....

please do the following checks:

-post photo from the TNC and Screen after power up
-post photo from the S5 after power up and after switching on estop with the bridged TNC contact
-Does the hydraulic Pump and the Bed Lube pump start, after switching e stop?
-check the 24V beetween 140/141 Page 8252, better with oszilloscop to see if all Diodes are ok.

With this control you are able to drive the axis manual, without an speed command from the tnc. look at page 8264 (connection control input Indramat).
9 XYZ ist the first input driven by manual control
10 XYZ ist the second input driven by the TNC, on the right side you see the axis enable section.
You wrote you can drive in one direction, check the following:

-is +15V and -15V ok? (L6, 12,11,14)
-Relais 7k2 and 7k3 are for the direction, do booth of them switching if you press an plus or minus button for an axis?
-check the voltages the wrote down on the sheet
-On Input L1 9 X has to be an +Voltage for moving and an -V for the opposite direction.
-check the inputs from the TNC L1,2,3 10, they have to be ~0V
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07 Nov 2019 08:26 #149815 by chris mcm
Hello db 1981
It is Friday tomorrow in New Zealand. We will carry out your checks as soon as Brad is available. Thank you for your help.
Cheers
Chris

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08 Nov 2019 07:00 #149906 by RotarySMP
Chris, that is a tasty DSG 13x you hid behind the MAHO.
Mark

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08 Nov 2019 10:14 #149909 by chris mcm
Yes, I bought the D.S.G 13" x 30 since the Maho. I swore I was not going to buy any more machine tools. The D.S.G was with a machinery dealer but likely had been rescued from a scrap yard.
The machine had been greased and nothing moved. A week of dirty work, replaced a few bronze bushings and I have a really nice tight D.S.G with hardened bed ways. These days if a machine is not metric it is obsolete. American decimal measure is no bother to me.
I wish the Maho was as easy for me to fix.
Thanks for your interest. Cheers
Chris

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08 Nov 2019 12:49 #149912 by RotarySMP
Photos, or it didn't happen :). My Dad served his time at MoW in Dundin and always raved about DSG lathes. I have never used one.

Did you and Brad make any progress on the troubleshooting steps detailed by db?
Mark

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08 Nov 2019 12:58 #149913 by J Green
Chris---
Mark commentated on the D.S.G. lathe ,which is impressive. but I spied the launch engine. Looks as if you haven't been sitting around playing cards all day. What is the stern to bow length of the boat that engine is to power and what size will the boiler be?
Given any thought to a Heidenhan firing control of the boiler?:laugh:

I don't feel qualified to give you-all advice . But maybe some of my thoughts
db1981 @ others mentioned checking the fluid level of both pumps (lube an hydraulic) . The reason being is a low level can effect a lock out in the start up sequence. Also I think the hydraulic pump has a pressure switch for min/max pressure. Don't remember if lubrication pump has a pressure switch but easy to check. My thought is to make up several low amperage light bulb sets and wire them across the contacts Think it is a 24 volt DC supplied on a MH600E but you need to verify what your C 700 is. To me, fumbling with volt meter test leads on a timing out circuit and trying to see the meter action has gotten old long ago . Use low amperage bulbs such that they indicate -not emulate the switch contact action . Something like several 12 volt auto instrument panel bulbs in series having very long wire leads that can be seen while working at the control panel .
db1981 noted the checking of various power supply voltages an looking for ripple to qualify functioning of diodes an filter capacitors
If a scope is not available some idea can be obtained by measuring the A.C. voltage level in the D.C. circuit. High A.C.value = high ripple = diode and or filter capacitor problem.
You stated the back up battery has been replaced. I have found that in today's world ,new replacement stuff may not have the quality that used to be. Not very hard to check the new battery ,might also check it's charging supply.at the battery terminals with some load.
I always try to make copies of the electrical schematics . That means greasy fingers- coffee/tea spills -pencil marks -etc don't cause a train wreck ( hull breach - loss of boiler feed water) due to the documentation being trashed.
It might help db1981 and others if you could note the extent of your documentation. Like schematics of your machine - schematics of the Heidenhain control - schematics of the Siemens PLC and if any service manuals.
Hope you and Brad find a quick solution.

Bob

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08 Nov 2019 20:37 #149936 by chris mcm
Thanks Bob. Unfortunately, I have to wait for Brad who is a busy manager of an Electrical & Automation Company. I can do some of the testing my self. And yes I do have copies of the Electrical Schematics. I may post them on this site. They may be useful to others.
Regarding my other machines and my long time Steam Launch Project. I don't want to change subject on this Forum. Any one interested. see waitematawoodys.com/?s=mcmullen+steam+launch&submit=Search
Thanks

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