4-Gang 1-Way Switch To Control 3 Power Supplies and a Router Independently

tommylight wrote:

Rod, drives should be mounted vertically, as noted in their manuals.

Yeh, that is due to a bigger stuff up. The enclosure is 400 x 400. I removed the backing plate and I carefully marked out all mounting bolts and inserted nutserts everywhere to mount everything. Then mounted everything only to find the backing plate was not square like the enclosure! So the plate is rotated 90 degrees from where I planned.
400 x 400 is really too small but it was what I could get at the time due to COVID. Made for a really messy install because of no room for slotted conduit

rodw wrote:

I would do this a but differently
Let the mains power come in and use some DIN rail terminals from Ocean controls. They have some Bus bar connectors to join a few together so that are all common. you'll need some green earth terminals as well
Grab something like this industrial power point but seperate the two pieces and flush mount to your enclosuere
www.tropac.com.au/10-AMP-250V-3-Flat-Pin-Switched-Socket
Use the switch as your main power switch and the power point for your router. Put a household breaker on a Din rail for circuit protection
So now you need to switch your router from your 7i96s.
You could use a Jaycar SSR (you also need the heat sink on this page)
www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state-relay-4-32...a-switching/p/SY4084
Or you could use a contractor from tropac but make sure it will switch with 24v DC (some are AC), you may end up with a 3 phase one
www.tropac.com.au/search?keywords=contactor
Between your mains power and the 7i96s, use an EMI filter  www.jaycar.com.au/240v-ac-emi-filter/p/MS4001 . Then run the mains power to your 5v and 24v power and 36 volt power.
For your estop, Jaycar's one has  1 x NO and 1 x NC contactor. set it up so that the NO side switches 24v to an input and the NC side is on the mains power to your stepper motor supply and your router power point. The goal is that hitting estop will turn the router off and disable motion. We also want to send a signal back to the 7i96s so it knows estop has been pressed. the 7i96s will be powered on all the time.

Hope you have followed thaf!


 

Good afternoon Rod,

Thank you for your guidance and instructions. I am very overwhelmed... I am going to study the solutions suggested by tommylight and Rob ( unknown ), I feel comfortable because they are simpler than this. As my knowledge progresses, might be I can take on this solution.

My friends are all programmers, none of them know electronics. I can only ask questions online, and study using online resources. I find that it is hard for me to get through some issues.

Thank you and best regards,

...behai.
 

Here's an explanation of "Latching Relays", which is what my schematic shows. I made up some PCBs to make the connections easier.

www.pcbway.com/blog/PCB_Basic_Informatio...Relays_d665ce9b.html

unknown wrote:

Here's an explanation of "Latching Relays", which is what my schematic shows. I made up some PCBs to make the connections easier.

www.pcbway.com/blog/PCB_Basic_Informatio...Relays_d665ce9b.html
 

Good evening Rob,

Thank you for the article link. In principle, I understand how it works.

Best regards,

...behai.

 

I thought I'd add some pictures - PSU - Dinkle terminals - relay - lazy wiring board - contactor - Monetary NO push button to energise relay (SW1in schematic), rotary type switch to control power to circuit (SW2 in schematic). In my control panel the contactor is not mounted close to the relay but closer to the power supply supply minimizes the length of the AC power cables. This was just quickly thrown togther for demo purposes, in the cabinet it's more professional looking.

 

And a close up of the lazy wiring board, diodes are snubber diodes. Wiring is so much easier. Relay & contactor can be same or different voltages, hence the R+ & R- and C+ & C- points on the board. The 240AC is wired directly to the terminals on the contactor.

 

 

tommylight wrote:

Seems a bit excessive and not very useful.
It is much better to use a single small industrial switch and 4 of automatic fuses inside the control box, you can switch on/off automatic fuses as they can handle a bit of torture although they are not made for it, but since they will be used during testing only, they will be fine.
 

Hi,

Regarding the automatic fuses, I understand that we can also use DC circuit breakers.

I am studying to understand how to select appropriate DC circuit breakers for different PSUs and loads.

I understand that: Fuse Rating in Amp = Load Current x 1.25

I am using the Mean-Well MDR-100-24 PSU whose output is 24VDC 4A to power the 8 proximity switches exclusively.

The current rating for each of the switch is 300mA. In theory, 4 of the switches could activated at the same time, the maximum Load Current is 4 x 300mA = 1.2A.

But because the switches are just inputs to the Mesa 7I96S, I understand that, in this case, they draw very little current, maximum about 20mA each.

The maximum Load Current is then: 4 x 20mA = 80mA.

An DC-rated miniature circuit breaker is:

- Current: 1A - 2A

- Voltage: greater than or equal to 24VDC; up to 60VDC or 125VDC

- Curve Type: Type B

Is this correct, please?

Thank you and best regards,

...behai.