4-Gang 1-Way Switch To Control 3 Power Supplies and a Router Independently

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1 year 6 months ago #325897 by tommylight
Where are you getting the info?
No DC side relays nor switches!!!
Never switch the DC side, unless you're in the solar panel business.
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1 year 6 months ago #325926 by behai

Where are you getting the info?
No DC side relays nor switches!!!
Never switch the DC side, unless you're in the solar panel business.
 

Hi tommylight,

I apologise, I rechecked the diagram (or rather picture) I drew before posting the question, I have the miniature circuit breaker between the input AC power outlet and the Mean-Well MDR-100-24 PSU... My question was completely wrong.

I learned above circuit breakers via the articles below, and other YouTube videos:

Choosing the Right Circuit Breaker for Your Electrical Needs

Main Difference between Fuse and Circuit Breaker

Tripping Curves of Circuit Breakers – B, C, D, K and Z Trip Curve

(These articles and the videos have nothing to do with my bad question.)

Can you please help me selecting the right circuit breaker to use with the Mean-Well MDR-100-24 PSU, in term of Current Rating and the Voltage Rating?

-- I understand that since this AC, and the Australian voltage rating is 240V, so it should be 240V?

Thank you and best regards,

...behai.

 

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1 year 6 months ago #325939 by unknown
One thing you need to remember is that the PSU have an initial inrush current that is greater than the max current the PSU draws when running.
I went with fuses rather than circuit breakers.
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1 year 6 months ago #325941 by behai

One thing you need to remember is that the PSU have an initial inrush current that is greater than the max current the PSU draws when running.
I went with fuses rather than circuit breakers.
 
Thank you Rob. I have found the following specs on the MDR-100-24 PSU:



The full PDF document address is: 100W Single Output Industrial DIN Rail Power Supply MDR-100 series
Best regards,

...behai.

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1 year 6 months ago #325943 by tommylight
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1 year 6 months ago #325953 by rodw
For a control box, the simplest way is to use a switched, EMI filtered and fused IEC connector
www.amazon.com.au/uxcell%C2%AE-IEC320-Sw...Filter/dp/B01FT0VRTS
You can see one of these used at the bottom right of my photo shared earlier.

But in your case, this won't work if you want to switch the router on and off because the current of the router will be too high for the typically 6 amp AC rating. Plus you would not want the electrically noisy router to be on the same side of the EMI filter as your electronics.

So in your case, I would use a fixed power lead and a cable gland to bring mains into the control box to two household breakers around 10 amp. One of these will protect your router circuit and the other your electronics, On the electronics circuit, immediately after the breaker, fit an EMI filter
www.jaycar.com.au/240v-ac-emi-filter/p/MS4001
Then connect all of your power supplies to the filtered mains power.

Filtering the power is really important to avoid spurious triggering from electrical noise. I learnt the hard way.

The next thing to work out is your estop. That's a bit tricky because you need to disable the router and the stepper motor power supply without using any relays that could fail. The estop needs to drop power to your router power and  stepper mains motion. You could use 2 phases of a 3 phase breaker but technically you would then need  to use a safety relay to be compliant.
Its probably acceptable to disable your stepper drivers using the enable pins on them that are usually left disconnected.

 
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