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6 years 5 months ago - 6 years 5 months ago #168483 by phillc54
Replied by phillc54 on topic Photos

thefabricator03 wrote: [
It not something you see much, I wonder how it would weather.

From what I read it requires a sealer.

Edit: Similar stuff here www.barnes.com.au/patinas-71
Last edit: 6 years 5 months ago by phillc54.
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6 years 5 months ago #168484 by tommylight
Replied by tommylight on topic Photos

thefabricator03 wrote:
Very Very Impressive. And I dont get impressed that often Lol.

+1
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6 years 5 months ago #168485 by thefabricator03
Replied by thefabricator03 on topic Photos

phillc54 wrote: From what I read it requires a sealer.

Edit: Similar stuff here www.barnes.com.au/patinas-71


Might buy some and test it out.

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6 years 5 months ago #168489 by phillc54
Replied by phillc54 on topic Photos

thefabricator03 wrote: Might buy some and test it out.

Cool, you can be the guinea pig...:)
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6 years 5 months ago #168492 by Uthayne
Replied by Uthayne on topic Photos

thefabricator03 wrote:

phillc54 wrote: Really nice work Bryan.


I agree, that is taking it to a whole new level!

Can you tell us a bit more about the dyes.


Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words.

SteelFX is a chemical patina that is sprayed onto freshly polished steel. It will not work if there is mill scale and works better the brighter the surface is polished to. I always start with cold rolled steel as it doesn't take much to get it to a state that's ready for the patina. Mill scale is a pain. The patina is sprayed on and it immediately begins to react with the steel, actually creating a thin layer of copper (for the CopperFX product). There's copper sulfate in the solution I believe.

The copper is the base for some other colors such as the torch fx (red/blue). The patinas can be layered to achieve different unique results. Once the color is achieved, just a rinse with water will "lock it in". Then it is immediately dried with compressed air as it will flash rust within minutes, especially in a humid environment. I then immediately seal it with an indoor/outdoor clear lacquer, although some powder coat. I have heard mixed results about this specific product yellowing after a clear powder is applied, I think it's extra sensitive to the PC cure temps. The cost per sq. in. I've found is actually a bit cheaper or at least similar to powder coating, and the finish is much more unique and interesting, in my opinion.

Also, I've you seen in the photos you can see through the finish so it's nice to add swirls.
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6 years 5 months ago #168495 by thefabricator03
Replied by thefabricator03 on topic Photos

Uthayne wrote: I always start with cold rolled steel as it doesn't take much to get it to a state that's ready for the patina. Mill scale is a pain.


How do you get the cold rolled steel to a state to be ready for the patina? Polishing? With say a buffer pad used on a car?

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