Set up using AMC AB15A100 drives, brushed DC motor Prototrak Plus with Encoders

Todd, many thanks! I have not reach out to A-M-C today, but will before the end of today. I have a model 500 (Amprobe brand) volt-amp tester. This has alligator clips (I think that is volts only) or jaws to go around wire in question. It says accuracy: within 3% of full scale. I will try the amp meter if it sounds like it is the correct meter to answer this question. I do not have access to oscilloscope.

Todd this is from your post earlier: "I'm guessing you don't have any good way to look at the amps being applied to the motor then either."

The equation used is attached pic, this shows how, I will need to find all the actual numbers used & edit this post.

Thanks!

Todd, I can recheck Pot2, to make shore. To set factory settings, 14 turns is required as per A-M-C suggestion. Should I add 1 to the # of turns, so it would be 12 1/3 turns as an example?

I could just sneak up on it by 1/16 turn at a time, until it comes around. I will wait for an agreement of the minds before I change this.

I did set "Y" axes, drive sw2 settings as well as the pot1 & 3, with a small pot4 it helped. Before, I had to watch so it would not get to end of travel.

Todd, will my amp probe work? It is a non-digital meter.

Many thanks.

No, I already added the extra turn. (Although looks like I goofed both on my math and on the high side number of turns, should have been 2-2/3.)

I mistakenly remembered the drives current limit as 7.25 and it is 7.5
6.25*12/7.25=10.34 is how I got the wrong number from the other post, but it should have been 6.25*12/7.5=10. So 10+1 would be 11 or 2+1 would be 3 turns down from the top end.

Todd, thank you!!! I reset pot2 to factory & counted 3 turns CCW as per your suggestion. Attached is pic, this is the best & nothing to wright home about.

Thanks!

What was the factory setting? Unless the factory setting was against the CW stop, 3 turns would be too far. Try half a turn CW (2.5 turns CCW from the CW stop).

PS: Servo motor current limits are kind of fuzzy things, you can usually push past them, at least for short periods of time.

Todd, thanks. Factory setting for pot 2 is full CW. This is several pic starting at 2.5 going to 1.0 for pot2. One of the file names says cw, all are ccw & 2.0 ccw is missing.

Many thanks!

Not sure what you're trying to show. So did increasing the amp limit (pot2) help with the jerking?

If you decide to continue to run with the amp limit set higher than your motor's rating, you will want to keep an eye on the motor temperature and watch that it isn't getting too hot.

PS: How is the friction of the axis in general? Is there a lot of resistance to turning the screw and moving the axis by hand? (When the servo is disabled.)

Todd, Many thanks for the great help. The weekend is here and I have pondered if I may not of picked the best trace when I was selecting. My selection has the end of the file name (the sw2 setting are the beginning part of file name) 1.517 (this is the mf, the capacitance of settings from SW2 chart in the A-M-C manual) for drive AB15A100. Attached are what I had to pick from. What trace looks best to you or other members? I have 1 more pic at 1.737 mf.
My thinking is that if I have no luck with the current mf, settings, start fresh with a backup plan. a new setting and move forward?
Many thanks

Todd, no excessive friction, ball screw & chrome ways with auto oiler. There is a time when the power supply is off, on the computer & servo power supply & I manually crank the x axes (the y axes, maybe) as fast as I can crank, a electric brake seems to come on all at once, for just a second, enough to make the hand slip off the handle when I crank it as fast as in 1 direction. Power has to be off.

Todd, I did not see the 1 message. After raising pot2, the only way to not have the motor jerk was to slow feed rate down.
Thanks

Edit: This as I test it today does not have as much of the sudden braking as it has been, but the red LED (on the A-M-C drive) will light when this happens today. Only stays on as you crank, if you turn X or Y axes, the LED stays on.