Sorry but I might misunderstand something.
Where did you measure to work to PE? Like Rod said earlier, typically you have a common star ground where all the devices are grounded. This is to avoid things like grounding motors through bearings., again like Rod mentioned. If you have this kind of setup, then everything ground to the star and if you have example a non isolated metal frame AC/DC converter then the PE connects to the electrical cabinet frame, where you have a ground wire to star so the moment you connect the work lead, you have a path between PE and work. Of course you dont want random things like this, example grounding everything through a PC power supply, this is why you plan your ground wires so that everything gets grounded "good".
It would be quite unusual, not really sure if unusual is the correct word, to have the table completely separated from PE. At least you should not design the equipment to work only in this scenario if you have even a small chance to use it outside the current project.
So about the tip, hypertherm has a nice video about HF ignition
HF Ignition
, blow back would be the same just without the HF, its the moving start mechanism that creates the spark. So Rod made a small mistake in the start sequence, there is a separate current path from the tip back to the plasma (see the hypertherm video). You do not want to have the tip at work potential (see below).
Having the tip connected to work would sound really strange, you would want to avoid that at all cost. If the tip is in the same potential as work, its almost guaranteed to double arc, meaning you cut the tip instead of the material. Current will try to find the shortest path to travel, now look at the orifice of the tip and imagine the plasma arc going through it, then compare that to your cut height. If the tip would be at work potential its very likely that the arc would start to cut to the tip instead of the plate.
I assume what you refer as tip is not a tip/nozzle?
I found a random picture from some herocut manual that shows the tip/nozzle inside so its not exposed, the exposed part being shield cup. Is this your setup? Can you send a photo or something?