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If you decide to build your own, look up marl rehorst's megamax design.

I'm about ready to mill a 315x315 core xy top plate from 10mm aluminum. Center cutout will be the bed. Similar to a e3d tool changer. I've had many of the parts for over a year.

I recently saw some big multi color prints done on a bamboo printer that were frankly amazing. If I didn't enjoy building my own printers, I'd probably just purchase the bamboo PS1 and save some money and an incredible amount of time.

andypugh wrote:

What is the feedback system used for axis position? Are there separate scales, or does that rely on the resolvers on the motors too?
 

There aren't any other position sensors, so the motor resolvers must serve both commutation and position feedback.

There is a basic setup error in the hal file: all PWMgens must be set to use offset mode
for the 7I97/7I97T. Here is an example from the basic7I97 configuration:


   

Cant say I've had any bolts come loose, Loctite will fix that if that's the case. The wheels are a consumable, but meh.

   

In the hypertherm microedge software that currently controls the table has encoder polarity and dac polarity set to negative for one of the y axis and x axis.  Would I need to change the wiring I have going to the 7i97t to reflect that and would that be causing some of my issues?

I wonder how this will end:


Be warned though, be seated before you search for the real price and have a glass of cold water near by!
I will need an ice cold shower if they call and say they can not ship it due to ....reasons!!!

Okay so I ordered a 7i76eu board a 10.9 touch screen a vandal resistant keyboard and mouse and a little fan less pc. 5v powersupply and a 24v powersupply. A incremental ebay linear encoder. I also programmed a little python program that will act as a gui.  

loadrt carousel pockets=10 encoding=index num_sense=2 dir=2
addf carousel.0 servo-thread


loadrt xor2 names=spindelwechsler
addf spindelwechsler servo-thread

loadrt mux_generic config=ff2
addf mux-gen.00 servo-thread

net carousel-rotate carousel.0.motor-vel
net carousel-rotate mux-gen.00.in-float-00
net s-output spindle.0.speed-out
net s-output mux-gen.00.in-float-01

net Spindelausgang mux-gen.00.out-float
net Spindelausgang [HMOT](CARD0).stepgen.03.velocity-cmd

i try something...

i have a stepper and some switches connected to my mesa.

i can run the stepper as spindle.. but the carousel.comp give me no velocity command.
i try it from halshow .... any idea?

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

jimmyrig wrote:

Most printers are made of 80x20, which while it works in the short term, fails slowly over time. Bolts come loose, pom wheels (that ride in the 80x20) wear out, belts loose tension, etc.

You probably mean 8020 alu, the profile is mostly 20x20 and rarely 20x40.

unknown wrote:

If I see "game changer" in a another YT review I'll be quite upset and may commit an act of unfathomable violence upon society.

+1
And another thing:
Bambu is the best printer.......
Yes they are good, no doubt about it, but when they fail (and they do fail often) takes days or weeks to get them back, while the Voron you built yourself you can fix in about half an hour, while having a smoke or coffee or both!
So far, for nearly 5 years, the only things that failed on my Voron's is the cabling as i used very bad (well the best i could find) cables.

Most printers are made of 80x20, which while it works in the short term, fails slowly over time. Bolts come loose, pom wheels (that ride in the 80x20) wear out, belts loose tension, etc.

If your gonna build your own buy 1k in parts and make it with ball screws, linear rails, nema 23 motors, 400mm+ etc, steel frame preferably welded.

It'll take a lot longer to setup but will last for decades

I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a good time and have found it to be a good solid workhorse.
Far by the best mod was a glass build plate, was fighting with adhesion for a while, adhesion is that good now I have to use hairspray to be able to remove the printed item when it's all cooled down .
If I was to build my own I'd reduce the Z axis travel to about 150mm and probably go for about a 400x400 bed.
If I see "game changer" in a another YT review I'll be quite upset and may commit an act of unfathomable violence upon society.

could you show me a exmple? i dont understand how i can connect the carousel.comp with the spindle... i go in basement and checked again. m19r720p1 doesnt work...

i understand that this compnent is very useful but i dont understand how i can link it up with the spindle to turn the carousel.