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It is 2.9.4, rpi5 with 7c81. I think is not related to spindle, even probe program don't want work.

You are kind of out of the ethercat swamp now. It's now all linuxcnc and hal
to set up the spindle.
You will need to know what the spindle expects as input (read the manual)
and what input you need to give to the ethercat unit to produce that (read that manual).

The example here uses the pwmgen component, ethercat does that now so you won't need that.
linuxcnc.org/docs/html/examples/spindle.html
You have the speed in spindle.0.speed-out, you should connect that to the duty cycle but you almost certainly
need to scale the rpms to the duty cycle number. Check example 1 in the doc above how to use the scale component
for that. So you will have the spindle rpm going in to the scale component and the output from
the scale component going to the lcec.0.0.DUTY-OUT-0 pin.

Set the frequency to the spindle's preferred frequency like 1500 (don't know, check manual)if that pin is for the frequency.

Thanks very much everyone.

So the one thing I'm noticing from the replies, is the large amount of time it takes to build one.

I wonder if the main reasons for self build are the enjoyment and learning, or just to get a much better quality printer that lasts.
And I like the idea of the Voron longevity and being able to quickly fix it
I certainly find myself drawn into the DIY build rabbit hole, but I'm trying to learn to pull on my own reigns if need be.

I haven't even tried this old Ender 3 yet and I've already ordered a new mainboard, a "self leveling" probe, and I may install Linux on a spare laptop we have, so I can run Klipper.
Next thing I'm thinking of is changing the Y "flexi-rail" system to a solid dual linear rail bed. I can't see that original bed keeping it's position when moving about with a large tall print.

Yep, just can't help myself I guess.

If you decide to build your own, look up marl rehorst's megamax design.

I'm about ready to mill a 315x315 core xy top plate from 10mm aluminum. Center cutout will be the bed. Similar to a e3d tool changer. I've had many of the parts for over a year.

I recently saw some big multi color prints done on a bamboo printer that were frankly amazing. If I didn't enjoy building my own printers, I'd probably just purchase the bamboo PS1 and save some money and an incredible amount of time.

andypugh wrote:

What is the feedback system used for axis position? Are there separate scales, or does that rely on the resolvers on the motors too?
 

There aren't any other position sensors, so the motor resolvers must serve both commutation and position feedback.

There is a basic setup error in the hal file: all PWMgens must be set to use offset mode
for the 7I97/7I97T. Here is an example from the basic7I97 configuration:


   

Cant say I've had any bolts come loose, Loctite will fix that if that's the case. The wheels are a consumable, but meh.

   

In the hypertherm microedge software that currently controls the table has encoder polarity and dac polarity set to negative for one of the y axis and x axis.  Would I need to change the wiring I have going to the 7i97t to reflect that and would that be causing some of my issues?

I wonder how this will end:


Be warned though, be seated before you search for the real price and have a glass of cold water near by!
I will need an ice cold shower if they call and say they can not ship it due to ....reasons!!!

Okay so I ordered a 7i76eu board a 10.9 touch screen a vandal resistant keyboard and mouse and a little fan less pc. 5v powersupply and a 24v powersupply. A incremental ebay linear encoder. I also programmed a little python program that will act as a gui.  

With carousel it should be possible but its a hard way

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

For 1, do you have a M3 $0 S1 command at the beginning of your cut?

For 2, this would probably work:
linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/plasma/qtpl...c.html#plasma:keep_z then you could just zero Z at the correct height and use a g0 or g1 z0 to send it back at the beginning of each cut.

For 3, why not just use M1? I think it’s still valid in QtPlasmaC. Use the move to Z0, then M1, then do your pierce and press cycle start? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also have almost zero experience with CNC oxyfuel tables.

jimmyrig wrote:

Most printers are made of 80x20, which while it works in the short term, fails slowly over time. Bolts come loose, pom wheels (that ride in the 80x20) wear out, belts loose tension, etc.

You probably mean 8020 alu, the profile is mostly 20x20 and rarely 20x40.

unknown wrote:

If I see "game changer" in a another YT review I'll be quite upset and may commit an act of unfathomable violence upon society.

+1
And another thing:
Bambu is the best printer.......
Yes they are good, no doubt about it, but when they fail (and they do fail often) takes days or weeks to get them back, while the Voron you built yourself you can fix in about half an hour, while having a smoke or coffee or both!
So far, for nearly 5 years, the only things that failed on my Voron's is the cabling as i used very bad (well the best i could find) cables.