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Thanks Andy. It was easy enough to edit the infeed angle for that one thread, and I did remember to edit it back, but having a conversational entry for this would be nice.

For what it is worth, I have been working with Inkscape and find it is excellent for creating engraving paths and generating g code. Much easier than using Freecad. However Blender still seems the best for bas reliefs and generating their g code. Freecad has is best for CAD drawings and generating milling g code. Image2gcode may be on option however I use a windows computer for developing my g code and linuxcnc strictly for operating my router.

Your seggestion of using inkscape for carvings or engraving makes life much much easier than the other routes. These softwares seem to be the big three for coverng 2D to 3D g code with free software.
Thanks again for your advise as it is saving me tons of time generating engraving paths from curved drawings or text.

Thanks again

..ich antworte mir mal selbst:

Bin nochmal aufmerksam durch beide Dateien gegangen, und habe ein paar Fehler gefunden und ausgebessert.

Jetzt fahren alle Achsen, und auch die Endschalter funktionieren.

Einzig die Spindelsteuerung fehlt in der GUI, den Sprühnebel Knopf habe ich aber mittlerweile.

 

I think 6.1.0-30-rt should probably be OK. (though I think that the packages were built on 6.1.0.10-rt )

I think this was resolved in the develop branch, multiple offsets but was something we found also, you can upgrade to the develop version which should resolve the issue

Hello,
you answered one of my posts. Can you help me installing the right kernel. I don´t know how to do it.

"Try repeating after typing
sudo apt purge raspi-firmware
If you still gets errors, share the output of uname -r as it appears it is trying to install an incorrect kernel version. "

I got this message 6.1.0-30-rt-amd64

Why not just write a simple G-code program to probe your 5 points and log the data to file?

You may also just use the halui pin,

linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gui/halui.html#_flood

 

On my lathe I fitted a 3-position switch, labelled with "on - auto - off". This allows me to override the G-code if required, to either on or off.

The HAL to do this looks like this:

Possibly not the simplest way, I suppose that it could have been done with simple AND and NOT components

coolant-out = (coolant _flood OR coolant_on) AND (NOT coolant_off)

Or even LUT5.
Truth-table for LUT5

Mayby this could help
forum.linuxcnc.org/24-hal-components/53990-button-toggle

Hello,
I would like to add a hardware button for cooling, for example.
Currently, my *.hal entry looks like this:
This allows me to switch the coolant on and off via the GUI.

How can I add the hardware button (push button)?
I want to be able to continue switching it on and off in the GUI and see that the cooling is switched on. 

Thanks   

Well yesterday and this morning before work I was able to not only correct the wiring for the encoders which works now, but also figured out my issue with the 2x20 pin header wiring issue. I now realize a note I read on another document that the output is not alternating between the top and bottom row but is straight across the top then the bottom. Now that the wiring is squared away I just need to figure out the gearbox shifting logic to make the machine in theory functional. Well that and build the operating panel which the screen is on its way.

The mill has continued to work great but as I started to mill larger parts and use the full 50 cm z-height of the machine my existing chip cover proved to be inadequate with chips ending up all over my garage.

I had already increased the size of the polycarbonate chip guard once before because of this reason so this time I decided to do "the final chip guard". In all honesty a full enclosure would probably be the way to go but I don't have space for that which is why I'm sticking to chip guards that sit on the table instead.

To get started I ordered a large sheet of 4 mm polycarbonate.

 

I then started a very analog process of designing the actual size and shape using the cardboard box that the polycarbonate sheet was delivered in.

 

Once I hade the decided size and shape I purchased some aluminum extrusions which I cut slightly too long and then milled to size in order to get square corners.

 

 

 

While at it I decided to add some more polycarbonate on each side of the column to protect everything behind the machine from chips. They attach with magnets so that they can be removed just by pulling them off.

 

Here is how it looks all assembled.

 

 



The door took a bit of thought to figure out what would be the best solution so that it wouldn't be in the way for operations which don't require it to be in place.

In the end I decided to go with this design so that it's very easy to remove. When removed I just set it down on the floor in front of the machine leaning against the stand.







 

Yep too true.

What sort of tool changer do you want to build?
A rack toolchanger can work well with a gantry-style machine, but not so well on a knee mill, so the choice does depend to an extent on the base machine.

(and very much on if it's a mill or a lathe, you haven't said)

What spindle do you have? It's a lot easier to set up an ATC with a pneumatic drawbar, for example. (If it's any help I converted my threaded drawbar 1960s mill to a pneumatic pull-stud type drawbar, but was lucky that the mill had a fairly generous drawbar bore)

I have seen some fairly clever hacks to change tools on an ER-collet spindle, though, its not impossible.
hackaday.com/2016/06/20/hackaday-prize-e...omatic-tool-changer/
This one rather cleverly uses a circular move to apply more torque to the collet nut than the spindle can provide.