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Settings on driver:

SW1-4 all set to "ON"

Rotating Switch set to C, D, E, or F (try them all)

600 steps/rev is correct.

Maybe Amazon sucks!

Dividing the number of pulley teeth will yield the reduction ratio.

So 3:1 is right.

The motor is 600 full steps/revolution.

Okay so here is what I'm thinking of buying.

www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808075045002....798396400003024786_1

For a set of 3 1000w motors it came out to being around $1000 usd shipped with gear reducers. I think 1000w might be a little large and I may go down to 750w. Do you think it's worth it to go absolute vs increment? They also asked about communication step dir vs "communication" I think they mean some sort of ethercat sort of deal. Waiting to here back from the salesman to clarify

I did alot of research last night and found the gear rack i have is 16 pitch with i belive a 20 dp I will still have the deal of a metric shaft to a imperial pinion size. But I'm not too concerned I can machine it out and proably hand file or even broach the keyway out. 

Yeah, the cap(s) are/is to smooth the input power.

Maybe your bench supply has minimal filtering caps.

Yes, modify the 'steps per revolution' in the arduino code to 600 (for full step or perhaps half-step).

Caxis.comp is not in the official LCNC distribution, so there isn't going to be any documentation beyond forum posts.  

It was authored by Andy Pugh a few years ago while he was working with another forum member who was trying to get his DIY lathe sorted out.  The lathe was configured to use the same motor for spindle work as well as c-axis positioning for a live tool.

I wound up in the same boat when I started my lathe project and stumbled across Andy's post where he uploaded caxis.comp. I shamelessly grabbed it and spent quite a bit of time trying to use it and get things sorted out.  The forum is littered with my ramblings & whining over the past year or so.

If you don't mind re-starting LCNC for spindle-mode, then creating two configurations should be pretty easy.

Do you need two spindles at the same time?  Like a router bit spinning in main spindle, and 4th axis-spindle turning as well?

Is the config you attached in the original post working well for you now and you just want some help creating a 2nd config for spindle work?

The THCAD2 is scaled the same as a THCAD-10 when jumpered
for 10V full scale and scaled the same as a THCAD-5 when jumpered
for 5V full scale.

I am unable to figure out how to use the engraver-1 python program. If I try python engraver-1.py I get:
File "engraver-1.py", line 1
>
^
SyntaxError: invalid syntax

I am running it as downloaded:
python engrave-1,py

Can you run the drivers with the motors disconnected (turn the power off before disconnecting the motor)?

Don't make a separate simulation, you might end up with slight differences, which will wreak havoc!

before i do this, should i modify the 'steps per revolution' in the arduino code?

For the capacitor, are we just trying to smooth the input?

That makes sense. Thanks. I always use the "Autovolts" option and has always been good enough but in this case there are complications that I have to catch so the manual calibration is required.

Maybe buy this and see if it works:
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005261850374.html

It's so cheap, you may as well.

Having a backup is helpful when troubleshooting.

Your driver is probably too small.

It's only rated for 2.8A peak. Your motor is rated for 2.8A RMS (4A peak).

You should have a 4A driver, not a 2.8A one.

You don't necessarily need full motor current, per se.

I actually recommend setting the driver current slightly below the rated current to reduce motor heat, if you can get away with it.

But maybe you can't get away with it!

Try this:

Set the driver to max current, fewest microsteps (lowest number of steps/rev).

Set the power supply to max voltage (not over 45VDC) and max current.

Try putting the biggest capacitors rated for above the supply current across the power input terminals to filter the power supply.

I currently have it on my test bench with a DC power supply set at 24v. Depending on what is doing it typically is drawing around 0.25A. if i turn the current knobs on the power supply it doesnt increase at all.

I have the switch on the driver set to D which according to the data sheet is 2.8 peak or 2 RMS which is alot more than its pulling. Should i switch this to 0-4 according to the datasheet thats about where my current draw is.


I just tried plugging 625 into the arduino code (its not on the machine yet) and its about 1.125 spins.

this is the process I followed to set up a hyperterm 85 SYNC
1 Make sure the Z axis is properly calibrated including trabvel switch if any.
2 Make sure table is properly laveled, so the plate to cut is always perpendicular to the torch
2 From hyperterm Cut tables select a metal plate in the midle range of the plasma power supply and set up the parameters in the proper tool.
3 Disable any THC feature including THC itself.
5 Cut a line of a length that allow you to record the voltage on the screen (May be 8 or 10 inches long), using the previusly ste tool.
6 Adjust the voltage scale to reflect the voltage in the cut table for that cut heigh.
You can repeat with a thicknes on the high range and then one in the low range and then make an average.
this method has worked to me don't need to many maths but for sure should be anothers that work.