Retrofitting a 1986 Maho MH400E

I'll probably go with the PC in the cabinet instead of the user module because there's a ribbon IDC cable going from my 5i25 to the Ethernet hub Mesa card (I forget the code name). So, either I mount both in the cabinet, or both in the user module. In the former case, I'll need to run an HDMI cable through the conduit (plus any extensions, like you did; HDMI cables can be very long, have smaller connectors than the old D-Sub type ports and are now cheap to get and easy to replace, so I'll do what Hanno did there), in the latter, I'd have to run two CAT5 cables and one DB25M-DB25M shielded cable (to the 7i77). Considering the DB25 cable is shielded, thick and not exactly cheap, I think the cabinet PC option is better. Had I bought the Ethernet anything FPGA board instead of a PCI one, I'd put the PC in the user module and only have one CAT5 cable to run to the cabinet. If there aren't any issues with that board, I think it's the best option for such retrofits, utilizing as much of the old casing as possible. I don't think there'd be an issue with data transfer speed.

Working with the Philips control thus far, I've used the RS port on the side of the cabinet to transfer programs between the MAHO and an ancient laptop with an RS port. So it seems natural to upgrade that connection to an Ethernet port and a brand new PC. The printer receptacle is a nice size for Ethernet I think.

When it comes to Internet access, I've so far been using my phone to set up a USB hotspot, since I'm on a business plan with unlimited data. It would be great to have an LTE router and wire everything with cables to always get the best speed (that's probably a quirk of mine, but my home PC is connected to the router with a CAT5 cable and I prefer it that way). I don't know if such devices exist though, they all seem to be completely wireless.

up to you as you like tiny space go for it
if it workes fine Well Done

I started working on the pendant for the MAHO. This is the back cover/lid of the pendant housing. Not exactly efficient tool paths.



Next challenge is making the top match
Mark

Inspired by this post:
forum.linuxcnc.org/38-general-linuxcnc-q...inese-tool-presetter
I bought a Chinese tool height setter. It arrived today.



It appears rather well made, with nice laser engraving of the logo. The tool striker plate appears to be carbide as advertised.


Lucky it is a simple device, as the instructions are not clear for me...



Now I'll need to get it working with LinuxCNC.
Mark

The picture in the instruction manual just shows two switches in separate circuits. The text does list 24V nominal 10mA max 20 mA though. Doing a continuity test on all combinations of wires and button pushs gives no continuity, so it is not a passive device with two switches. Doing the continuity test again with multimeter leads plugged in correctly reveals both switches are NC with white/green being the over travel switch and black/brown being the tool height switch.

PCW's recommendation was for a 2.4K pull up resistor. Now I am confused as it looks like mine is just two passive switches. Should I still use a pull up resistor? I have 2K2's here.
Mark

Making slow pregress on the pendant. Got the face done. Next step contour the side, round the edges, and then flip it over to hog out the back.


Mark

the pendand is the HARD WAY
you realy beat it up to the limit

I though of getting a cheap chinese pendant that would do 95% of what I want, but the 5% is wanting the tool release button on the pendant, so I decided to DIY.
Mark

Its not cheap but the Chinese remote pendant I use has 3 custom buttons on it that wire into I/O pins at the receiver end.
www.cdxhctech.com/html/eProduct/view_386.html%5C
You can also and2 those 3 buttons to the yellow button so you could get another 3 functions.

But hey too late for you I think now!

You just have to select the right part number for compatibility...

That looks really nice. How reliable is the wireless connection?
Mark