Hardinge HNC retrofit and where to start

John


the mag arm is still there but it got alot of reflection from the flash

should i clean the insulation and check the board , the machine will not power up at all


except the cooling fans in the control cabinet?



Bob

Andy


I am not sure about that board I have not removed anything yet but there is a

board above it with card slots/ some occupied some not .




it resembles a breakout box of sorts but not sure at this point.



Bob

Bob,

The board with all the wires and card cage is the Hardinge plc,it carries out all the non axis functions of the machine. I have seen another guy use it as a terminal board,I junked mine,it was old .....The pins are made by Amphenol and can be removed with pliers if you are careful.I replace them with pheonix style terminal blocks.

If the control wont power up at all,you can jump the contactor from the 24v source on the back of the control.There are plugs that go from the logic cab to the control,on the right side of the 550,with the back cover removed,its either the top or bottom right hand plug .Jump the 24v to the contactor pin.I dont have the book and wiring diagrams in front of me now,so its from memory.

I suspect the 12v power supply.which is on the right side of the plc cage is bad.All the i/o runs on 12v and the control wont power up with out it.You should have about 8 books for the machine, a red ge book,explaining the control and drives,a blue operation manual,a brown wiring diagram/schematic book a blue/white book from hardinge explaining the hardinge electronics and two yellow books ,manitanice and trouble shooting.You should also have about 10 pages of wiring diagrams .You cant do this with out them.


The camstore is a neat device,put it on ebay.....Like Ive said before an HNC is an extra aggrivation to retro because it was an NC machine.Its by no means impossible to retro and worth it.The 550 cab wieghs 700 lbs empty,I scrapped mine!!I however save the operator panel for its buttons.

JR

thanks J.R.


I thought that it was a terminal strip I might use it for that as well


Bob

Thanks John


I will start checking all of the transformers and see if i can find the problem


I do know that the coolant pump and the spindle motor work, by manually closing the contact

relay. Do you know if the collet closer has a tendancy to stick if left in the closed position, mine does not seem to move when I

apply air at the closer (bypassed the electric valves) It does have a collet with bar-stock still mounted in it.



Thanks


Bob