Hardinge HNC retrofit and where to start

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18 Jul 2012 08:25 #22121 by andypugh
bobinater wrote:


That's a strange board. I assume it is intended as a place to connect test instruments, and to link a few signals (rather like a "Hardware HAL")
Or do other wires go in from the back?

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18 Jul 2012 10:48 #22122 by BigJohnT
bobinater wrote:




I assume this is the turret encoder, all I have seen online have the insulation removed

is that necessary or is it for repair?

Bob


Yes, that is the turret encoder. It is a little different than mine unless you have removed the magnet arm from the top of it?

This is mine uncovered to replace a burned out part



BTW, that little burned thing had drawn down the 24vdc buss so far the machine would not run. So that $0.25 part saved me a ton when I purchased the machine as not running.

John

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18 Jul 2012 10:54 #22123 by BigJohnT
bobinater wrote:


Be real careful with those tiny terminal strips I've not been able to find new pins to crimp on so I had to drill out and solder a couple of wires back on.

John

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18 Jul 2012 13:03 #22127 by bobinater
John


the mag arm is still there but it got alot of reflection from the flash

should i clean the insulation and check the board , the machine will not power up at all


except the cooling fans in the control cabinet?



Bob

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18 Jul 2012 13:15 #22128 by bobinater
Andy


I am not sure about that board I have not removed anything yet but there is a

board above it with card slots/ some occupied some not .




it resembles a breakout box of sorts but not sure at this point.



Bob

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18 Jul 2012 14:21 - 18 Jul 2012 14:46 #22130 by JR1050
Bob,

The board with all the wires and card cage is the Hardinge plc,it carries out all the non axis functions of the machine. I have seen another guy use it as a terminal board,I junked mine,it was old .....The pins are made by Amphenol and can be removed with pliers if you are careful.I replace them with pheonix style terminal blocks.

If the control wont power up at all,you can jump the contactor from the 24v source on the back of the control.There are plugs that go from the logic cab to the control,on the right side of the 550,with the back cover removed,its either the top or bottom right hand plug .Jump the 24v to the contactor pin.I dont have the book and wiring diagrams in front of me now,so its from memory.

I suspect the 12v power supply.which is on the right side of the plc cage is bad.All the i/o runs on 12v and the control wont power up with out it.You should have about 8 books for the machine, a red ge book,explaining the control and drives,a blue operation manual,a brown wiring diagram/schematic book a blue/white book from hardinge explaining the hardinge electronics and two yellow books ,manitanice and trouble shooting.You should also have about 10 pages of wiring diagrams .You cant do this with out them.


The camstore is a neat device,put it on ebay.....Like Ive said before an HNC is an extra aggrivation to retro because it was an NC machine.Its by no means impossible to retro and worth it.The 550 cab wieghs 700 lbs empty,I scrapped mine!!I however save the operator panel for its buttons.

JR
Last edit: 18 Jul 2012 14:46 by JR1050. Reason: ooops

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18 Jul 2012 14:24 #22132 by bobinater
thanks J.R.


I thought that it was a terminal strip I might use it for that as well


Bob

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18 Jul 2012 14:33 #22134 by BigJohnT
bobinater wrote:

John
the mag arm is still there but it got a lot of reflection from the flash
should i clean the insulation and check the board , the machine will not power up at all
except the cooling fans in the control cabinet?

Bob


I'd check your DC power supply to see if it is on. On the CHNC IIRC CR1 had to be on for the DC buss or something like that. Just have to get a meter out and start tracing to see where is died... IIRC the HNC is a 12vdc power supply.

John

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18 Jul 2012 14:57 #22138 by bobinater
Thanks John


I will start checking all of the transformers and see if i can find the problem


I do know that the coolant pump and the spindle motor work, by manually closing the contact

relay. Do you know if the collet closer has a tendancy to stick if left in the closed position, mine does not seem to move when I

apply air at the closer (bypassed the electric valves) It does have a collet with bar-stock still mounted in it.



Thanks


Bob

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18 Jul 2012 15:05 #22139 by BigJohnT
Mine sticks a bit, what is the pressure regulator for the collet closer set at?

On mine standing in the front the right hand hose is open collet. If your sure you have air on the open line tap the bar stock with a plastic hammer to see if it will loosen up the collet.

John

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