Hardinge HNC retrofit and where to start

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18 Jul 2012 15:17 #22142 by bobinater
I am applying shop air right at the collet closer, have not tried to give it a love tap,


I will give that a try, is the collet unscrewed from the spindle end like the royal collet closer or is from the closer end


I have what looks like a spanner nut (two Holes for a wrench ) on the closer end?


I hope thats clear I don't know any other way to describe it?




Bob

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18 Jul 2012 17:10 - 18 Jul 2012 17:16 #22149 by BigJohnT
If it is like mine it has 4 1/4"-20 SHCS that hold it on to the back of the spindle. You need a very short wrench to get to them and the spindle turning makes that task easier. Loosen the 4 screws then spin the piston part. the collet will come out the front. The collet does not turn only the draw tube. The spanner nut is to disassemble the collet closer not to change collets.

This is mine hanging out the back and you can see the 4 SHCS's that must be loosened 1/2 turn.



John
Last edit: 18 Jul 2012 17:16 by BigJohnT.

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18 Jul 2012 18:58 #22153 by bobinater
Thanks John


that would have taken a little investigation to figure out, Nothing at all like the royal or dorian collet closers




Bob

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20 Jul 2012 03:19 - 20 Jul 2012 03:20 #22232 by bobinater
hey big john


I got the collet closer unstuck, some yahoo tightened the thing so tight that the
air cylinder would not even move. I disconnected the air lines from the tail end of the closer and loosened the four 1/4-20 bolts, used a little pb blaster on the spindle end and low and behold the collet came right out none the worse for wear, the collet closer does not seem to be leaking but the air solenoid that controls it have attached a pic in this post, is there supposed to be an o-ring in the groove that I am pointing at?

or will this solenoid leak w-o power applied?


thanks


Bob
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Last edit: 20 Jul 2012 03:20 by bobinater.

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20 Jul 2012 10:52 #22237 by BigJohnT
That's different from mine, but I would assume an o-ring would go in the groove.

John

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20 Jul 2012 12:14 #22239 by andypugh
bobinater wrote:

is there supposed to be an o-ring in the groove that I am pointing at?

it looks like an O-ring groove, but I think I see an O-ring on the mating part that makes it redundant.

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20 Jul 2012 13:15 #22241 by bobinater
I saw that too Andy but the mating part is a plunger and it moves up and down to direct airflow to either side of the collet closer, Maybe i will disassemble the valve for the parts catcher and see if it has an O-Ring. that one is not leaking. Just in case where is a good place to buy new valves?



Bob

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20 Jul 2012 15:27 #22242 by andypugh
bobinater wrote:

I saw that too Andy but the mating part is a plunger and it moves up and down to direct airflow to either side of the collet closer, Maybe i will disassemble the valve for the parts catcher and see if it has an O-Ring. that one is not leaking. Just in case where is a good place to buy new valves?


It sounds to me like you need an O-ring, not a valve.

I buy my valves from the skip at work. But eBay is an easy source too.
I have a couple of pneumatics shops in town, but they seem to want full price for new parts, which isn't the market I am in.

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22 Jul 2012 15:54 #22320 by bobinater
Sorrry i posted my last update in the wrong thread.


I got the HI AK's powered up on my lathe and jumpered pins b-e and applied 1.5v across pins g-h

but got no movement on either servo, is there any way to bypass the servo and at least test the motor and make sure that is working< at this point I think I will have to buy drivers for the resolver motors if they are O>K>



thanks all


Bob

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22 Jul 2012 15:57 #22321 by bobinater
Or just a thought does anybody have a set of known good HI-AK's that they could part with

for a reasonable cost?



Thanks


Bob

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