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I use debian 10 with linuxcnc 2.9.pre0.

I think you would have to update to 2.9.3.

I have add millturn.com.

When compile with make , have :
hal/components/millturn.comp: In function ‘millturn_setup’:
hal/components/millturn.comp:71:9: warning: implicit declaration of function ‘hal_set_unready’; did you mean ‘hal_port_read’? [-Wimplicit-function-declaration]
if (hal_set_unready(comp_id)) goto error;
^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
hal_port_read
Linking ../rtlib/millturn.so


I use debian 10 with linuxcnc 2.9.pre0.
i have add milturn.comp at core_sim.hal in axis sim , have error :
Note: Using LXRT realtime
millturn: dlopen: /usr/lib/libint/rtlib/millturn.so: undefined symbol: hal_set_unready

how can resolve this ?

Thanks

I’m also old school here too with a direct (LPT port conected) gecko G540 . Ali with its very cheap recycled parts, now have my setup which I have been using for the last 10 years. A h81m board with a G3258 CPUcan be overclocked for a even lower latency. The G3258 is 2 core only and fully unlocked. I have overclock set to 4.2 from the 3.2 default with no extra CPU settings.

vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005003864471753....ller%7Cquery_from%3A


A modern N100 board is the way to go but its 4 times the price.   forum.linuxcnc.org/18-computer/54979-new...asrock-n100dc#318470

I am very grateful for the support you give us.

Thanks

Actually tommylight I need your brutally honest opinion. Is their a well recognized 3D printer you would recommend
for those who are just starting out in 3D printing but don't know how to build their own printer. I have only had
direct experience with the Prusa mini and the Bambu X1C. I haven't used any of the other brands.

This might help - github.com/thestealth131205/vfdmod

Ja ich weiß... Umso schlimmer, dass ich diese einfache Lösung als letztes probiert hab.

Für mich war es naheliegender die Relais im Verdacht zu haben, da erst damit das Problem auftrat.

Die Mouse die ich bisher verwendet habe ist aber auch wirklich nix besonderes.
Jetzt werde ich etwas qualitativeres besorgen und kann wieder besser arbeiten an der Fräse.

Eigentlich hätte ich dem Vorschlag gleich nachgehen sollen, denn die Tastatur hat ja problemlos funktioniert und die hängt am benachbarten USB Port.

Wie dem auch sei. Problem erstmal gelöst und nochmals danke an alle

Yup. Looks like I have a LOT of printing to do. LOL. I have experience with the PETG compressing when a bolt
is tightened down on with my small RC plane's. has anyone made the Enraged Rabbit mmu filament changer?
github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Community/ERCF_v2

notJamesLee wrote:

I assigned one pair to A /- and the other pair to B /- on the high voltage section of the driver.

Good, that is correct.
Set the microstepping switches to 4 or 8, set the current to 2A for now, power on, see if the motors lock.
-
Additional info:
Those drives do not use the TB6600 chip despite having that plastered all over, they use the TB67S109AFTG, they are much better than TB6600 although a bit less current, do more microsteps, have some protections so can handle some incidents while 6600 can not.
All in all, much better chips.
The only issue i encountered with them is the DIP switches tend to cause issues due to vibrations, 4 out of 20 had this issue, can be easily fixed by soldering or cutting switch pins

Bambu can shove it up...
Long live VORON, so here is the link to my mods for using the round rails on Y and Z axis, get some hydraulic cylinder rods, some LMUU8 or 10 or 12 and procure a single MGN12 rail and carriage for X, everything else you can easily found. Skip this if you can find all 7 square linear rails required.
www.printables.com/@Toma3D_1991434/models
Print parts in PETG if you can not do ABS or HIPS (yes HIPS is very good when you get past "it curls more than ABS", it does not), and when finished, print ABS or HIPS and dismantle the printer to change all 3D printed parts.
PETG does yield a bit, so screws become loose with time requiring re-tightening occasionally, but absolutely very usable for several years of daily use.
And a friendly warning, use good flexible cable, the only thing failing on all of my Voron's is the cabling that i had to extend as i can not find good cable here.

You are welcomed, always, and welcome to the "dark side" !
Used them once, worked MUCH better than advertised, got unbelievably good support from PCW, used them ever since, a lot.

chrischan wrote:

Also manchmal ist die "Lösung" doch simpler als gedacht. ........ dass eine andere Mouse mein Problem beseitigt.

Das war meine erste antwort.

tommylight wrote:

-Get another mouse with better/thicker cable
-Put a ferrite "doughnut" on the motor wires just outside of the VFD
-Put a diode in parallel with the relay coil, mind the polarity

langdons wrote:

I have one DM556 driver that is capable of 4A RMS maximum.

OK, try to get the DM860 then, preferably the 220V or 110V versions, depending on your mains voltage so you do not need a power supply for them.

oh come on cornholio try angerish . LOL

I saw that.
I’ll just stick with my aging Ender 3.
I can’t even. Can’t make thoughts into engrish.