Arc OK intermitent issues on torch fire

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22 Dec 2020 04:52 #192777 by luftlupus
So this is the relay at the end of the transfer pins but it seems a lot smaller from what i was expecting to find.

Also a bigger relay close by, but has no connectivity to the transfer pins.


Then just an overview of both together.
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22 Dec 2020 05:10 #192778 by rodw
Can you check for continuity from the relay pins to the connector? Maybe it has a trace on the board going to the bigger one.

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22 Dec 2020 05:16 #192779 by rodw
So this appears to be the 5V relay docs
4donline.ihs.com/images/VipMasterIC/IC/P...02568146F3353EA87419

It appears to be 1 amp at 30 volt DC so the 90 Ohm resistor ( 2 x 270 Ohm) will give 267 mA @ 24 Volt so its still within spec.
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22 Dec 2020 05:29 #192780 by luftlupus

So this appears to be the 5V relay docs
4donline.ihs.com/images/VipMasterIC/IC/P...02568146F3353EA87419

It appears to be 1 amp at 30 volt DC so the 90 Ohm resistor ( 2 x 270 Ohm) will give 267 mA @ 24 Volt so its still within spec.


So 2 of these would do the job?
I checked for traces and connectivity but neither connect them together.
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22 Dec 2020 05:32 - 22 Dec 2020 05:33 #192781 by phillc54

So this is the relay at the end of the transfer pins but it seems a lot smaller from what i was expecting to find.


If that is the transfer relay then you shouldn't need any contact wetting. The minimum switching current for it is 10uA at 10mV.
Last edit: 22 Dec 2020 05:33 by phillc54.
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22 Dec 2020 05:36 #192782 by rodw

So this appears to be the 5V relay docs
4donline.ihs.com/images/VipMasterIC/IC/P...02568146F3353EA87419

It appears to be 1 amp at 30 volt DC so the 90 Ohm resistor ( 2 x 270 Ohm) will give 267 mA @ 24 Volt so its still within spec.


So 2 of these would do the job?
I checked for traces and connectivity but neither connect them together.


My mistake, you need three!

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22 Dec 2020 05:38 #192783 by luftlupus
Would using one cause an issue? or just not be enough for the desired effect?

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22 Dec 2020 06:14 #192785 by luftlupus

So this is the relay at the end of the transfer pins but it seems a lot smaller from what i was expecting to find.


If that is the transfer relay then you shouldn't need any contact wetting. The minimum switching current for it is 10uA at 10mV.

only following through with this as i had swapped my one 1k 1watt resistor for one of the 270ohm 5 watt. because the manufacturer was vague so i didn't want to overload the relay with all 3 at once. But on that note was cutting great with the new 1 resistor until this afternoon when i can only assume something has let the magic smoke go as when the torch tries to fire now there is no pilot arc or ArkOK signal coming back to the GUI. so maybe i have blown the transfer relay i am thinking.

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22 Dec 2020 10:01 #192795 by phillc54
Disconnect the wires from the transfer terminals of machine and check with an ohmmeter on the transfer terminals while attempting a cut.

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22 Dec 2020 12:30 #192805 by snowgoer540

was cutting great with the new 1 resistor until this afternoon when i can only assume something has let the magic smoke go as when the torch tries to fire now there is no pilot arc or ArkOK signal coming back to the GUI. so maybe i have blown the transfer relay i am thinking.


This is exact behavior I saw with SSR vs Dry Contact relay (what your manual calls for as well) for controlling the torch firing.

Assuming your machine is still misbehaving, it's easy to test, in fact it's the way I discovered the problem by accident: Touch the two "torch on" wires together.

If the pilot arc starts reliably when it was otherwise not working, then that's the problem at least with the "the torch tries to fire now there is no pilot arc" part of the issue.

For my machine, it would reliably fire with touching the wires together. When I hooked it back to the SSR, it would intermittently fire. For reasons I don't understand, when it was wired to the SSR, whether or not the ground clamp was hooked to the table would increase or decrease reliably. After discovering that was the problem, I can take the ground clamp off the machine and it still produces a stout pilot arc.

I think it's worth a try to solve the "torch on" portion of your woes. It's cost free, other than time :)

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