Another plasma component...

So after a few test cuts I discovered a few weird things. First I keep tripping the float switch and I think it’s from moving down to fast. Also the more concerning thing is false starts. I have never ever had this 30XP not start an arc with a trigger pull. But now I’m getting it a ton. Just a hint of blue arc out the tip and an alarm of no arc. I can retry over and over and still the same thing. I can then reach over and pull the trigger and it fires right up. I’m wondering if it’s an artifact of the torch switch being controlled by an opto22. Any tips, I’m thinking of wiring it stright to the relays I have open. It’s like it only gets a trigger on signal for a fraction of a sec and shuts off. Is there a delay somewhere that tells it to wait x time befor tripping with no arc. I’m wondering if the torch is not starting as fast as it wants so it’s tripping out. Thanks guys

Try adding a debounce to your float switch so a spurious trigger needs to stay on for a while before its seen.

If you pulse the torch from the GUI, does it come on? If not, you may have a wiring issue.

I don't think polarity on the opto22 will be a problem. Islander will know for sure.

I will run some tests tonight but yes a pulse from the GUI will fire it 100%. My float switch is crazy touchy as it’s from a tool setter on a mill. So it does not take much to trip it, maybe .005. It’s so touchy that if the shield touches the steel it trips it. I soldered my switch wires right to the board. If you look on the other side of the 30XP there is 2 holes labeled start lol all ready drilled and primed for soldering.

well now everything works .. I put a relay on torch-on that closes arc-ok and the entrance to the thcad so by adjusting the voltage the z axis goes up and down.
now I have to mount it on the small cnc with an inteco eagle 35 plasma without hf.
thank you
mauro

if you want to laugh, here is the photo of my test bench

So I had another weird issue today and it might have been fixed in the current update. I found I can’t have the curf crossing lock on. It would lock the z at its start height and just start cutting. Now it would not do it all the time but one time it did I looked at the screen and noticed the light on the GUI was on. So turned it off and the problem disappeared.

JTknives wrote:

So I had another weird issue today and it might have been fixed in the current update. I found I can’t have the curf crossing lock on. It would lock the z at its start height and just start cutting. Now it would not do it all the time but one time it did I looked at the screen and noticed the light on the GUI was on. So turned it off and the problem disappeared.

The one cut I did with kerf crossing using halscope showed that the Kerf crossing signal was enabled before the kerf was encountered. Its still very much experimental and Phill needs to get his table built to go further with this. I would just leave it turned off.

JTKnives,

You know, when you have a HP XP30. You may not solder on the HP's internal circuit's, warranty is lost and gone at that moment.

Using the hand torch trigger external is no problem i expect for HP warranty. But that is not for sure. In my case they could accept it as warranty, but in your case i don't know it for sure.

Please stay off HP's internal circuit's. Use CPC 3 & 4 for exernal torch start & 5 + 6 for torch height control in combination with internal dip switch for optimal thc resolution.

Grotius wrote:

JTKnives,

You know, when you have a HP XP30. You may not solder on the HP's internal circuit's, warranty is lost and gone at that moment.

Using the hand torch trigger external is no problem i expect for HP warranty. But that is not for sure. In my case they could accept it as warranty, but in your case i don't know it for sure.

Please stay off HP's internal circuit's. Use CPC 3 & 4 for exernal torch start & 5 + 6 for torch height control in combination with internal dip switch for optimal thc resolution.

I will solder and mess with what ever I want on “my” plasma cutter. I have had it for years and it does not have warinty any more any ways. Plus I would think tying right into the spot that is labeled for start is better then hacking in some kind of trigger bypass out of the hand control torch. Plus the 30XP does not have a CPC port, well mine does now lol.

Sorry if I sounded snippy.